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How TO Make Candy
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xX^
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by
NATHAN F. PECK,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
In offering this volume to the public ^ the publish-
ers beg briefly to state that it is not a compilation
of receipts and directions from unreliable sources^
but an entirely new work, written by a gentleman
thoroughly proficient in the art of which he treats,
assisted in the preparation of the paragraphs relat'
ing to flavors, fruit syrups, and medicated candies,
by a practical pharmacist of large experience. The
object which has continually been kept in view, has
been to present a series of reliable formulas, and
instructions for the manufacture of those kinds of
confectionery which are in greatest demand, and which
may easily be prepared by persons possessing little
or no experience in this direction, and without the
use of expensive machinery or appliances.
How TO Make Candy,
The art of the confectioner is one which,
without being especially intricate or difficult of
acquirement, demands much experience for a full
mastery of its details. We cannot hope, therefore,
by description merely, however plain and specific,
to enable the reader to attain that deftness of
manipulation which will be found essential in the
preparation of very many of the more delicate
and ornamental products which the confectioner is
called upon to furnish. This, like every kind of
manual skill, can come from experience and prac-
tice only. It is quite possible, however, to impart
the information by which the various kinds of
candies and confections most in demand may
easily be prepared, especially for the delectation of
the home circle, where the quality and pleasant
6 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
flavor of the product is sought, rather than its
manufacture into any particular form.
In such cases, the information given in these
pages will enable any person who will intelligently
and carefully follo-^ the directions laid down, to
produce with very little trouble and cost, and of
unqualified purity, many of the sweet things which
are in such universal demand. Confections so
simple as ordinary lozenges, for instance, require
skilled labor for their manufacture of uniform size
and smoothness, and that they may be neatly
packed in small rolls, the form in which they are
usually sold ; but any intelligent boy or girl can
with a little fine sugar, dissolved gum, and flavor-
ing material, produce the same fully equal in
quality, though possibly not in appearance, to those
made by the largest manufacturer. This little
book is not therefore intended to be a technical
treatise for the use of skilled confectioners, but a
manual of plain and simple recipes and directions
for the use, principally, of the young people of
the household, who will, we trust, find sweet em-
ployment in the practical application of the
information given.
MATERIALS USED.
MATERIALS USED IN CANDY MAKING.
The materials used in the home manufacture of
candy are neither expensive nor difficult to be ob-
tained, even in places possessing but limited
trading accommodations. Aside from sugar in its
different forms, the base of all confections, these
materials consist chiefly of flavors and colorings
which are in almost universal demand for many
other purposes, and are hence readily procurable.
A brief description of the more prominent charac-
teristics of the principal ^articles used will be
necessary before proceeding to describe the pro-
cesses in which they are to be employed.
Flavors.
The essential oils of various aromatic plants
are usually employed for the purpose of communi-
cating an agreeable flavor to candies and other
confections. In some cases the essential oil is
used in an undiluted form, or with only a slight
admixture of strong alcohol to "cut it," as the
operation is usually termed, that the flavor may be
8 HOW TO MAKE CAND Y.
more readily and uniformly diffused throughout'
the sugar in process of manufacture.
The proper preparation of many articles, how-
ever, requires the introduction of the flavoring
material in a less concentrated form, and for this
purpose solutions of the different oils are employed,
termed essences or extracts.
These, as used by different makers of confec-
tionery, are of varying strength, a matter of little
practical importance as regards the quality of the
manufactured goods, if made from pure materials,
as the amount of any particular kind to be em-
ployed is regulated by the taste, and the weaker
the extract, the greater will be the quantity needed
to produce a certain intensity of flavor. It is,
however, considered better in making the more
solid forms of candy, to use the flavoring ma-
terial in as concentrated a state as is consistent
with a due regard for its proper diffusion in order
that but little liquid may be introduced.
In the receipts for the preparation of flavoring
extracts which will hereafter be given, the strength
indicated will be that usually adopted by the best
makers of these goods, whose products may be
substituted in following the directions of succeed-
FLA VORS. g
ing pages regarding the flavor of confections, in
all cases where it is not deemed desirable to
undertake their manufacture. Flavoring extracts
are but simple mixtures of essential oils with
spirits, or tinctures prepared by maceration of the
flavoring substance in the same material, and the
receipts to be given will produce these articles of
the best quality, fully equal in all respects to those
so largely advertised.
It is only necessary to be careful that the essen-
tial oils employed are fresh and unadulterated.
The confectioner whose business requires the use
of any considerable quantity of flavoring extracts,
and who is in the habit of buying those prepared
by others, is only paying a large price without any
corresponding advantage to himself, for a mere
mixture of essential oils and alcohol, when he
might easily procure the articles separately and
perform his own mixing. Where only small quan-
tities are needed, however, it may be better to
purchase a small bottle of good extract than to
attempt its manufacture.
The difference in meaning of the terms essence
and extract as applied to the solutions described
relates solely to the strength of flavor.
lo HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
Thus, extract of lemon is prepared by using
eight ounces of the essential oil of lemon to one
gallon of alcohol, while the essence would con-
tain only two or three ounces of oil in the same
quantity of spirits.
General Directions for the Preparation of Fla-
voring Extracts.
Much needless repetition may be avoided by
giving just here a few general directions which are
to be observed in the preparation of all flavoring
extracts, while any special information needed as
regards any particular flavor will be found under
its appropriate heading. Great care should be
observed to secure pure, inodorous alcohol,
which must be of sufficient strength to completely
dissolve the essential oil at the ordinary temperature.
In most cases, such strength is indicated by
the almost immediately resulting transparency of
the mixture, but in some instances it is necessary
to filter it through carbonate of magnesia in order
to effect a perfect combination.
If the oil does not actually separate from the
alcohol — which it will not do unless the latter be
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 1 1
weak — a perfectly transparent solution has no ad-
vantage, save that of appearance, over one which
is slightly cloudy.
As essential oils have very little color, the re-
sulting extracts will be clear, or only slightly
tinged. The color is, therefore, no real criterion
by which to judge of the strength of the extract.
The public, however, not being generally acquainted
with this fact, are inclined to favor that style
which to them seems the strongest, judging from
appearances merely. In deference to this whim,
manufacturers of bottled extracts are accustomed
to color their goods — a perfectly harmless proceed-
ing, though not really necessary to their excellence.
For this purpose, tumeric is employed to give
a yellow ; cochineal or aniline dye, a red color.
For practical use in flavoring candies, of course
no color need be added to the extracts ; in fact, in
the manufacture of white goods they should be as
free from color as possible.
Anise. — The true essential oil of anise is pro-
cured by distillation from the seed of the well-known
plant of this name. The oil, generally sold as such,
is obtained from the fruit of an East Indian tree,
12 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
and so nearly resembles the true oil, that it has
generally supplanted it. The flavor of anise is now
but sparingly used by confectioners, the taste being
too unpleasantly remindful of elixir paregoric and
other nauseous medicinal doses of which it is an
ingredient, to find much favor with the young folks
when presented in the form of candy. The pure
oil congeals at a temperature of 50°, and will not
readily dissolve in alcohol of a temperature below
60°, though when dissolved it will not separate at
a much lower temperature. At the right tempera-
ture it unites freely with any proportion of strong
alcohol, and the solution does not need to be
filtered. The extract is rarely used. If wanted, it
may be made in the proportion of one ounce of
oil to a pint of spirits.
Cinnamon. — Under this name two essential oils
are imported, one, and by far the best known, being
the product of the Laicrus cassia^ and rightly
named oil of Cassia, though ordinarily termed oil
of Cinnamon. The ground bark of this tree has
obtained an extensive use in culinary art, and is a
favorite flavor in many household dishes. It is that
which is usually sold by grocers as ground cinna-
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 13
mon, though the same distinction should obtain as
in the case of the oil. The other, and much the
finer oil, is obtained from the Laurus cimtamonujn^
and is known as oil of Ceylon Cinnamon. Its
price is usually seven or eight times that of the
ordinary oil of cassia, and in quality it correspond-
ingly excels. For some uses it is indispensable,
especially in compounding the cachou flavor to be
mentioned hereafter.
The ordinary oil of cassia is the one generally
used by confectioners, but the true Ceylon oil has a
spicy fragrance peculiarly its own, and would prove
much more acceptable. As its flavor is very in-
tense it should be employed with judgment, a few
drops only sufficing for a pound of sugar.
Extract of Cinnamon — True Ceylon oil, One ounce.
Alcohol, One pint.
Tinge lightly with aniline red, then with tinc-
ture of tumeric. This combination will give a
brownish-red color, resembling ' that of an extract
prepared from the bark.
Cloves. — The characteristic qualities of this
spicy product of the Indies are too well known
to require an extended description. All parts of
14 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
the clove-tree yield the essential oil, but it is
more plentifully obtained by distillation from the
undeveloped flower-buds. These, when dried, con-
stitute the cloves of commerce.
The flavor of clove is a pleasing one, though
not so universally popular as some others.
It is principally used in those forms of confec-
tionery which are intended to give a pleasing per-
fume to the breath after the use of articles the
odor of which may be thought to be objectionable
to others. In such cases the oil is used in its
concentrated state.
If an extract is required, it may be made as
follows :
Extract of Clove — Oil of clove, Two ounces.
Alcohol, One pint.
Carraway. — The oil from the fragrant seeds
of this plant, although readily obtainable, and
quite often employed in the manufacture of cordials
and liquors, is not used as a flavor for candies.
The seeds themselves are largely made use of in
the preparation of comfits, and it would seem that
the oil might be acceptably used in the flavoring of
candy.
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 15
Calamus. — From the root of the sweet flag or
calamus is distilled an oil having the peculiar fla-
vor of the plant. It is very little used, save
occasionally as an ingredient in the flavoring of
small breath confections. The green root sliced into
pieces and boiled in sugar has long been a favor-
ite domestic confection, and is often prepared by
manufacturers under the name of candied flag.
Checkerberry. — The same as wintergreen,
which see.
Coriander. — The small round seeds of this
plant were formerly much used in the preparation
of large-sized comfits or sugar balls, which were
quite a favorite some years ago. At present they
are but little called for. The essential oil might
perhaps be used as a flavor for some novelty which
would be apt to meet with considerable success,
as the taste ©of the seed is pleasant and far from
being commonly known, especially to the younger
people of the present time.
Bitter Almond. — The essential oil of this
name is obtained by distillation from the residue
remaining after expression of the fixed oil from
i6 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
the kernels of the fruit of the bitter almond
tree, a member of the peach family. Indeed, the
pits of the latter fruit are often substituted for
bitter almonds, the flavors of both being nearly-
alike. Unless perfectly pure, it possesses highly
poisonous properties, and should be used with cau-
tion. As the injurious effects are due to the
presence of a notable quantity of hydrocyanic
acid, which may easily be removed without detri-
ment to the flavor of the oil, the necessity of
using the latter in a purified form only is ap-
parent.
Bitter almond is a very pleasing flavor when
judiciously used, but has a strong, disagreeable
taste when added in excess. The extract may be
prepared as follows :
Extract of Bitter Almond —
Pure essential oil of bitter almond, Two ounces.
Alcohol, One pint.
The extract is usually sent out uncolored. Ex-
tracts of peach and nectarine are the same as the
above, but are labelled differently to suit the re-
spective demands of customers.
Capsicum. — This pungent flavor is used to a
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 17
limited extent, chiefly in the preparation of Ca-
yenne lozenges.
Extract of Capsicum — Powdered Cayenne pepper, Four ounces.
Alcohol, One pint.
Mix, and let stand (or a few days. The extract
may be obtained clear by filtration.
Cardamon. — A 'v^ery agreeable aromatic, used
as a breath perfume. The small seeds are coated
with sugar, and sold in the form of a comfit.
The seeds are quite expensive, which has probably
prevented their use in other forms of candy.
The flavor would be a fine one for lozenges.
Should an extract be desired, it may be prepared
as follows :
Extract of Cardamon —
Cardamon seeds, finely ground, Four ounces.
Alcohol, « One pint.
Allow the seeds to macerate for two weeks, and
filter.
Ginger. — The root of this plant is employed
by the confectioner both in the recent and dried
state. When fresh and tender the roots, deprived
of their outer covering, are boiled in syrup, and
i8 HOW TO MAKE CANDY,
form an agreeable, though very rich and pungent,
preserve. The preserved ginger is often imported
from the East Indies in small earthen pots, which
are bound with strips of bamboo.
The dried root is much used in cooking for
its agreeable flavor, and in medicine for its excel-
lent stimulating and carminative properties.
In the form of lozenges 2ftid drops its pleasant
effects are much sought after, especially in the
summer months. In the incipient stages of many
diseases peculiar to hot weather, its prompt ad-
ministration has often prevented severe sickness.
The extract is therefore much in demand, and
is manufactured and sold in large quantities.
Its preparation is extremely simple, and as the
ingredients are so easily procured, it may be
made by any family for less than one fifth of its
cost when puschased in the small bottles in which
it is usually vended. Ginger is cultivated in many
tropical countries, principally in the East and West
Indies, and Sierra Leone in Africa. That brought
from the West Indies is considered to be finer
in the flavor, and of greater strength, and is gen-
erally known by the name of Jamaica ginger. The
root of this species is deprived of its epidermis,
FLAVORING EXTRACTS. 19
and undergoes a bleaching process before being
sent to market, by which it is much improved in
appearance. It naturally commands a higher price,
perhaps greater in proportion to the price of other
good kinds than the real difference in quality de-
mands. As regards the extracts which are so
freely advertised as being made from Jamaica gin-
ger, they are, in the majority of cases, a deception
so far as their names are concerned, not a particle
of real Jamaica ginger entering into their com-
position.
If honestly prepared, however, of full strength,
from a fine quality of African or East Indian gin-
ger, this little fiction of name can hardly be
considered in the light of a fraud, as the medic-
inal properties are the same, and the strength of
the substituted article can easily be made fully
equal to all requirements.
Extract of Jamaica Ginger — Pure ground ginger, Four ounces.
Alcohol, One pint.
Mix, and allow them to remain, frequently
shaking, for four or five days before filtering.
The extract, when completed, may be filtered
by draining it through a little cotton-wool placed
in the neck of an ordinary tin funnel.
20 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
If the first portion which runs through is tur-
bid, it may be returned. After running a few
minutes, the extract will come through of a clear
brandy color. In large quantities the extract is
prepared by the process of percolation.
During the summer months a drink well
adapted to the season may be prepared by add-
ing to ice water sweetened with sugar or molasses,
a few drops of the ginger extract prepared as
above. If made from .molasses the drink will be
an improvement on the old-fashioned " switchel,"
that favorite beverage of farmers in haying-time.
Lemon. — From the exceeding great variety of
flavors which nature has so lavishly created for
the delectation of mankind, hardly any other can
be selected which will compare in popularity with
that of the lemon. Suited alike to all tastes,
in every climate, and in all seasons, in sick-
ness or in health, the palate never tires of
its delicious aroma. It forms alike the principal
flavoring ingredient of the exhilarating punch of
the bon vtvanfj or the simple lemonade of the tee-
totaller. The fruit, from the rind of- which the
flavor is obtained, is so well known that any
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 2 1
description is unnecessary. The extract of lemon
sold in such large quantities, generally in small
panelled bottles, and labelled in so many varying
styles, is a simple mixture of the essential oil of
the lemon with alcohol.
Extract of Lemon — Pure oil of lemon, Two ounces.
Alcohol, One pint.
Mix, tinge slightly with a few drops of tinc-
ture of tumeric, and filter. Of course the
proportion of oil may be increased or diminished
at pleasure, but the proportions given are those
usually adopted by makers of ^ the best flavoring
extracts.
For home use a fine extract may be made by
grating the outer rinds of a dozen lemons and
mixing the same with a half pint of alcohol.
The skin of the lemon consists of two sec-
tions, the inner one being white, tough, and bitter,
the outer one consisHng of an aggregation of
small cells surrounded by a very thin yellow
envelope, enclosing the pure essential oil in which
alone the flavor is found. Consequently, the ob-
ject in preparing a fine extract should be to
obtain all the oil from the outer portion without
22 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY,
destroying the quality of its flavor by mixture with
the white and bitter part of the skin.
To secure this result requires care on the
part of the operator, the lemon being lightly
rubbed on the grater in such a manner that a
fresh portion is continually exposed as soon as
the oil cells have been broken and removed, and
the white portion of the skin appears.
Another way is to remove the outer skin care-
fully with a very sharp knife, and macerate the
thin parings in alcohol. By either process an
extract is obtained possessing the beautiful yel-
low color and fine flavor of the fruit. A mod-
ification of this process may be adopted by using
lumps of refined sugar as graters. The oil will
be absorbed in the pores of the sugar, and when
full, a fresh lump may be substituted. These
rough lumps saturated with oil when covered with
alcohol will readily give up to the latter their fra-
grant accumulations. Oil of lemon is one of the few
articles which it is almost impossible to obtain in
small quantities of good quality, from even first-
class druggists. The reason for this lies in the
fact that it is a substance exceedingly prone to
change, and however fresh and pure it may be
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 23
when purchased by the dealers, it soon loses its
fine taste, and in a greater or less degree ac-
quires an aroma resembling turpentine. It will
therefore be found better to prepare it for domes-
tic use directly from the fruit. As the latter
varies greatly in price, advantage may be taken of
exceptionally low rates, and a quantity prepared
for future use. After mixture with alcohol the
flavor of the oil remains unaltered for a long
time.
Orange. — The flavor of this fruit may be ob-
tained in the form of an extract by either of
the processes mentioned in the* preceding para-
graph.
It is even more disposed than lemon to change
by exposure to the air, and hence is little used in
confectionery intended to be kept for any length
of time before consumption.
Orange Flower. — The flowers of the orange
when distilled with water yield a volatile oil,
possessing the fragrance of the blossom in a some-
what modified form, owing to the action of the
heat used to effect the distillation. The essential
24 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
oil rises on the surface of the water which dis-
tils over and is termed oil of neroli. The water
impregnated with the flavor is sold under the
name of orange flower water, and is occasionally
used in confectionery. It may also be made by
filtering pure water through carbonate of magnesia
with which oil of neroli has been rubbed.
The true odor of the flower is best obtained
from an alcoholic infusion of the scented pomade
prepared in the south of France for perfumery
purposes.
Peppermint. — There are few who are unac-
quainted with the peculiarly grateful fragrance of
this herb.
In all parts of our country it is found in
certain favorite localities of its own, growing in
a wild state, in some places so profusely that its
harvesting is a profitable one.
The regular supply of essential oil is, however,
obtained from the cultivated plant, large quantities
being raised for this purpose in the States of
New York and Michigan.
In New York the business is principally in
the hands of the Messrs. Hotchkiss, in Wayne
FLA YOKING EX TRA CTS. 25
county, and the care and attention which they
have bestowed upon the cultivation of this plant,
and the distillation of its essential oil, have given
to their product a reputation which has caused
the article bearing their name to be sought after
in the principal markets of the world. In St.
Joseph county, Michigan, there are a greater
number of acres under cultivation, and much fine
oil is sent to market from this section, but not
under a trade-mark so well known as that of the
Hotchkiss oil. Much of the common oil is either
badly adulterated or carelessly made, and has a
coarse flavor much different from the fine, ethereal
taste of the pure and carefully-prepared article.
The flavor of peppermint is chiefly made use
of by confectioners in the manufacture of drops,
lozenges, and the small penny sticks which with
their brilliant red stripings have at all times proved
so attractive to juvenile eyes. No matter what have
been the money fluctuations of our country, no
dealer has had the audacity to change the price
of the latter, but by comparing the size of the
sticks offered the children of the present day with
the generous proportions of those obtainable by
the young people of a former generation, we can
26 1^0 IV TO MAKE CANDY.
see in their attenuated shapes an illustration of
the wonderfully diminished purchasing power of
the American cent.
For flavoring these forms of candy, the oil is
generally used without much reduction. If re-
quired, an extract may be prepared in the pro-
portion of one and one half to two ounces of
oil to a pint of alcohol. No filtering will be
necessary, as the oil is very soluble. For domes-
tic use the essence is the form generally employed,
which is, as before stated, but a weaker form of
extract. Two ounces of oil to the gallon of alco-
hol is the standard proportion.
The essences sold by pedlers are still weaker,
one ounce only of oil being used to three quarts
of alcohol and one of water.
Rose. — It seems to be a noteworthy fact that
we rarely care to employ the same substance as a
source of gratification to both the sense of smell
and that of taste. We prefer to allot to some
especial aroma the task of tickling the palate,
while to another is assigned the service of de-'
lighting the nasal nerves. In accordance with this
"natural selection," the odor of the rose is oftener
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 27
employed in perfumery than as a means for ren-
dering other substances more acceptable to the
taste. Occasionally it is used for flavoring some
forms of candies, and when so needed an extract
may be made by dissolving one half ounce of
the pure oil or otto of rose in a pint of alcohol.
The bottled extract for culinary flavoring purposes
is made of one half this strength, or two ounces
of oil to the gallon of alcohol.
Rose water, which is sometimes used, is ob-
tained in a manner similar to that described under
the head of Orange Flowers. The true extract may
also be prepared from the scented rose pomade,
and has an exceedingly fine flavor. As the po-
made is obtainable only in large-sized cans, the
preparation of this form of extract, as well as
that of orange flowers, is not practicable on a
small scale.
Sassafras. — A very fragrant oil is distilled
from the bark of the root of the sassafras tree.
It is used principally to flavor lozenges, for
v/hich purpose it is employed in its natural state
without reduction.
The essence is sometimes in demand as an in-
28 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
gredient in root beer, and is made by adding two
ounces of the oil to a gallon of spirits.
Vanilla. — A combination of intensity and del-
icacy characterizes the delicious flavor of vanilla.
The plant is a running vine of the orchid family,
and is a native of Mexico and South America.
The flavor is obtained from the fruit, which is
a round, slender pod, from five to eight inches
in length, filled with an oily, pulpy mass, contain-
ing a great quantity of very minute shining black
seeds. The best vanilla comes from Mexico, and
is distinguished by the greater size and length of
the pods over those of inferior kinds. The pods,
usually but improperly termed beans, are collected
before they have become fully ripe, and having
been carefully dried, are brushed over with a fixed
oil, which gives them a glossy appearance. They
are tied up in bundles weighing about a pound,
and packed in tin boxes which are tightly sealed.
The aromatic principle of vanilla consists of a
crystalline substance termed vamlltJt, which is never
isolated for practical purposes, the flavor being
obtained by maceration of the pods in diluted
alcohol, and used in the form of an extract.
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 29
Owing to the high price of vanilla, its extract is
rarely to be obtained in a pure state. Unfortunately,
the public taste has become so habituated to the
substitute, that it will not pay the price neces-
sarily required for the unadulterated article. This
substitute is the Tonka bean, the seed of a tree
growing in Guiana, commonly known as the "snuff"
bean, from its frequent employment as a perfume
for that substance. Used alone, or in combination
with a small portion of vanilla, which it strongly
resembles in flavor, its taste is not unagreeable to
those not accustomed to the delicate aroma of the
latter in a pure state.
It is largely employed in the manufacture of
the cheap flavoring extracts sold by dealers
whose trade does not demand goods of the
quality usually kept by druggists and first class
grocers. The following receipts will show the
difference in the quality of various kinds:
I. Extract of Pure Vanilla— Vanilla pods. Two ounces.
Alcohol, Eight ounces.
Water, Eight ounces.
If only a small quantity is to be ' prepared,
the pods may be sliced and cut in fine pieces
with a sharp knife, and thoroughly pounded with
30 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
one or two ounces of granulated sugar in an
iron mortar. They are then to be placed with
the alcohol and water , and allowed to stand
ten or twelve days, when the extract may be
filtered. If a large amount is required, one of
the machines used for mincing meat may be em-
ployed with the best results to secure the fine
division of the pods ; by running the vanilla
through once or twice it is uniformly cut in very
fine pieces, and needs no further preparation be-
fore admixture with the alcohol and water. It is
much better to allow the ingredients to macerate
for a month if practicable, and large manufac-
turers, after drawing off the extract, subject the
dregs to a second maceration with a fresh por-
tion of diluted alcohol, which second infusion is
used in the preparation of another portion of
extract from fresh material. In this way every
particle of flavor is thoroughly extracted. The ex-
tract prepared in this manner is of a clear
brandy color, and possesses the true flavor of the
vanilla pod, without impairment. Only the best
inodorous alcohol should be employed, and the
flavor seems to be more thoroughly extracted
when it is used in a diluted form.
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 31
II. Best Commercial Extract —
Vanilla, Four ounces.
Tonka beans, Eight ounces.
Sugar, Six ounces.
Alcohol, Two quarts.
Water, Two quarts.
The vanilla pods are to be finely divided in
the manner described in the preceding paragraph.
The Tonka beans, being of a different texture,
and containing less oil, may be easily ground in
an ordinary hand mill. The further processes of
manufacture are the same as those already described.
In this manner is prepared the bulk of the
extracts of vanilla, advertised as pure and sold
as first-class.
III. Common Extract Vanilla —
Tonka beans, Twelve to sixteen ounces.
Alcohol, Two quarts.
Water, Two quarts.
Good brown sugar, Eight ounces.
The process of manufacture is a simple one.
The beans are ground and macerated with the
alcohol, water, and sugar for about two weeks.
The extract is then strained through a cloth filter
and is ready for bottling, though it will be im-
proved in appearance if allowed to stand for a
32 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
week, in order that all insoluble matter may be
precipitated.
This form of extract is that sent out by the
large manufacturers who make a specialty of the
preparation of this class of goods for the cheap
trade. It is, of course, very inferior in quality,
and is sold at a lower price, but the profits on
its manufacture are greater than are made on the
finer grades.
The color is quite dark, if of sufficient strength,
and by comparison with the pure extract, its in-
feriority is quite apparent.
Wintergreen. — But few of our readers have
failed to meet with this fragrant creeping plant in
the course of their forest rambles, and every
country boy or girl knows some corner of the
woods in which it may successfully be sought.
The pleasant aromatic taste of its leaves has
made it a popular flavor, and it shares with pep-
permint the distinction of being a universal
favorite with juveniles. In those places where its
growth is most abundant, it is gathered for the
sake of its essential oil, which possesses all the
fine aroma of the plant.
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, 33
Like peppermint, the oil is used for flavoring
by direct admixture, with but little reduction.
The- essence is in demand during the summer
months as a flavor for various popular beverages.
It is prepared by the addition of two ounces of
the oil to a gallon of alcohol. A few drops of
aniline dye or cochineal tincture are added to give
it a reddish tint.
Artificial Fruit Essences.
An extended description of the mode of man-
ufacture of this class of flavors would doubtless
prove interesting to many, but would hardly fall
within the scope of this work, as it is our inten-
tion to explain in detail only those processes
which can be successfully carried out on a small
scale, as well as in the large way. Neither could
any full account be given which would be intelli-
gible to those unfamiliar with chemical technics.
It is suflicient, then, to say that the flavoring prin-
ciples of many fruits appear to reside in volatile
substances belonging to the class of ethers, rather
34 HOW TO MAKE CAND Y.
than that of essential oils. In the case of such
fruits these fragrant ethers are developed during
the ripening process, and are found in their great-
est perfection and intensity of odor just previous
to the disorganization of the fruity substance by
putrefaction.
We all know how insipid and flavorless a thing
a green banana is, and how delicious its taste and
aroma become when it is just at the point of de-
cay. These ethers seem therefore to be the
product of a chemical change in some of the
organic components of the fruit, brought about by
exposure to heat and the oxygen of the air.
And when we remember from how few ele-
ments are formed the innumerable organic
combinations with which we are acquainted, by
how feeble an attraction these combinations are held
together, and how readily certain agencies operate
to break up and rearrange them, we are easily
prepared to understand that there are methods by
which the chemist may in many instances control
the operations of nature, and by conducting them
in channels of his own choosing, render them
available in the so termed artificial production of
certain organic compounds.
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. 35
' Such operations present many apparent anoma-
lies to those unacquainted with the operation of
chemical laws, . and when told that the ether to
which the 'fine fragrance of the pineapple is due
is obtained in large quantities, for flavoring pur-
poses, from putrefied cheese or rancid butter, no
wonder that they receive the statement with some
degree of incredulity.
Yet the elements which give the fine perfume
in the one instance and the nauseous smell in
the other, are the same; it is only a change in
their proportion and arrangement which causes so
perceptible a difference in their effects.
And to illustrate how nicely the line is drawn
between pleasing and repulsive odors, it may be
stated that the perfume of the tuberose, the fra-
grance of numerous fine fruits, and the disgust-
ing odor of many noxious insects, belong to the
same class of chemical compounds, and but the
slightest change in molecular arrangement is re-
quired to cause the transformation of one into the
other. In some instances, the difference in the sen-
sation produced upon the nasal nerves is due simply
to a variation in intensity of the same odor. The
delightful bouquet of the Sheldon or Duchess
36 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
d'Angouleme pear, the perfume of the jasmin,
and the vile smell of the common squash-bug are
identical in character. In the latter instance the
nauseous sensation seems to be the result mainly
of greater intensity of odor, by which a disturbing
nervous effect of an unpleasant character is pro-
duced.
This quality of intensity of odor is character-
istic of all these compounds, and when in a
concentrated state, hardly any of them are pleasant
to the smell.
Owing to this quality, only a very small quan-
tity of any kind is required to communicate the
peculiar flavor whicli it represents to a large
body of sugar or other substance with which it is
to be used. The demand, therefore, though large
in the aggregate, is limited, and quite within the
capacity of a few manufacturing chemists to sup-
ply. As they have had the shrewdness to keep
the price at a point which, while affording them
a good profit, does not tempt to competition,
they have obtained a practical monopoly of the
production. The artificial essences most in use are
the following ;
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. 37
Essence of Pineapple. — This essence is a
solution of butyric ether in alcohol. The first
step in its preparation consists in the formation
of butyric acid, which is most readily obtained
by mixing a solution of grape sugar with about
one tenth of its weight of cheese which has be-
come rancid, and half its weight of powdered
chalk. The mixture is allowed to stand for two
or three months in a moderately warm place, du-
ring which time the butyric acid forms and
combines with the lime of the chalk, from which
it is separated by means of sulphuric acid.
From the butyric acid mixed with alcohol and
sulphuric acid, the butyric ether is formed, which
has the characteristic odor of the pineapple. It
is also combined with other ethers to produce
compounds resembling the flavors of various other
fruits.
Essence of Banana. — This essence is pre-
pared by first distilling a mixture of one part of
fusel oil, two of acetate of potash, and one of
strong sulphuric acid. After careful rectification
it is dissolved in alcohol and sold as pear essence.
When mixed with butyric ether it quite closely
38 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
resembles the natural flavor of the banana, and
is sold as the essence of that fruit.
Essences of Strawberry, Raspberry, and
other Fruits are simply mixtures of the above-
described ethers with others of a similar charac-
ter, but do not so nearly resemble the fruits
which they are supposed to represent. The
essences of pineapple and banana are the ones
principally used, and may be obtained in small
quantities of the retail druggist, or in larger lots
for bottling, from the manufacturing chemists.
When first * introduced they were alleged to
possess poisonous properties, but no ill effects
having been observed after their constant use for
a long time, no fears need now be entertained on
that score. Like many other substances, if used
in a concentrated state, they would certainly
prove injurious if not fatal, but this would be
true of oil of lemon, or many other substances
which cannot be classed with poisons. As but
very small quantities are needed to produce a
pleasant flavor, there is no danger to be appre-
hended from their use.
COLORS. 39
Colors.
The influence of the hnagination upon the spe-
cial senses is a recognized fact. A rose by any other
name would not smell quite as sweet to one, to
whom from remembrance of previous association of
name and odor, the mere mention of this beauti-
ful flower suggests an idea of a specific delicious
fragrance. Nor would the child's stick of pepper-
mint candy afford nearly as much gratification to
the juvenile palate if presented without the brilliant
red stripings, which, to youthful fancy, seem insep-
arable from its peculiarly pleasant taste. If, there-
fore, the employment of color is not in a certain
sense necessary in confectionery, it does in some
degree add to the enjoyment derived from many ar-
ticles which are greatly improved in appearance by
its use. The few colors needed for this purpose are
of a simple and harmless character, and may be
easily prepared at home, if their use is deemed
desirable.
Red —
Powdered Cochineal, One quarter ounce.
« Alum, " " '«
" Sal Tartar, « « , «
" Cream Tartar, One half "
40 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
Mix and add six ounces of warm water and four
of alcohol. Allow the mixture to stand over night,
and filter for use. If intended for immediate use,
the alcohol may be omitted, and the quantity of
water proportionally increased.
II. Take a piece of pure carmine, of the size
of a walnut. Rub it in a mortar with one ounce
of water, to which add a few drops of ammonia,
until the carmine is entirely dissolved. If thick,
it can be reduced with more water.
The use of ammonia is not objectionable, as
it is- so volatile that a few moments' exposure to
the air is sufficient to drive away all traces of
its presence.
Yellow. — To a half ounce of saffron add two
ounces of alcohol, and two of water. Allow the
mixture to stand several days. The tincture thus
prepared has a deep orange color, and when di-
luted, or used in small quantities, gives a beautiful
yellow shade to all forms of sugar. Gum gamboge,
dissolved in water, may be used in small quantities
only. If too freely employed its peculiar medic-
inal properties will prove objectionable.
COLORS.
Blue. — The best and most innocent substance
for this purpose is the soluble form of Prussian
blue, which may be procured from the druggist
in the form of a powder which is very soluble in
water without the use of any acid. Ordinary
Prussian blue is insoluble, unless a small quantity
of oxalic acid, which is highly poisonous, is added.
The pure, soluble Prussian blue is a preparation
of iron, and of a harmless character. It may be
dissolved in water in quantities to produce any
desired depth of color. One dram of this pow-
der to two ounces of water will be found
sufficient.
Green. — This color is produced by a mixture
of the blue and yellow colors in any proportion
according to the shade desired.
Purple.— From a mixture of the red and
blue solutions.
The above-named colors are all that ordinarily
need be employed, and will, by combination, and
the use of different degrees of strength of the
solutions, produce many beautiful and varying
tints.
42
HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
Many of the French confections and their
imitations are colored by substances, the use of
which is highly objectionable. To say nothing of
the employment of umber, sienna, etc., which are
nothing but certain forms of dirt, many substances
are introduced like red lead, chrome yellow, and
vermilion, which are highly poisonous. The beau-
tiful aniline dyes, though much employed, are
considered by many objectionable, and are sup-
posed to be somewhat poisonous in their nature.
The intensity of their color is so great, however,
that the quantity necessary to produce any inju-
rious effect would not be likely to be introduced.
The red and purple shades, as procured in solu-
tion from the druggist, may be employed in some
forms of confectionery, a few drops only being
sufficient to color a large body of sugar or syrup.
Sugar.
The transformation of this substance into the
manifold forms which it is capable of assuming,
and the production of compounds pleasing to the
taste by its incorporation with other materials,
SUGAR. 43
constitute the art of the confectioner. The sources
from which sugar may be obtained, in greater or
less quantities, are many. It is found in all fruits
and in the juices of many plants. The palm in
certain tropical districts, the beet in various parts
of Europe, and the maple in our own country,
furnish in the aggregate, large quantities. But the
supply from these sources is small when com-
pared with the immense quantities furnished by
the different varieties of sugar-cane, the plant
which is chiefly depended upon to yield the
amount required by the commerce of the world.
Raw, or Brown Sugfars.— These terms are
applied to the sugars which are sent to market
in the crude state in which they are obtained
by evaporation of the expressed juice of the
cane, and the separation of the uncrystallized parts
in the form of molasses. They contain varying
amounts of impurities, and differ in color accord-
ing to the degree of skill and care which has
been exercised in their manufacture.
The cheaper kinds contain a large percentage of
foreign matter, consisting chiefly of dirt and por-
tions of the fibre of the cane, are very dark
44 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
colored in appearance, and possess a disagreeable
taste and smell. The better varieties have a
coarser grain, a fine yellow color, very little odor,
and are without impurities which can be detected
by the sight.
Refined Sugar. — No matter how much care
the manufacturer of the raw sugar may bestow
upon this product, it is impossible to procure it
in a pure state by the process of evaporation
only. A certain amount of coloring and extract-
ive matter of the cane will remain, the removal
of which must be effected by a special course of
treatment. The purification of the crude sugars
is a separate branch of industry, requiring a large
amount of capital in its prosecution, and giving
employment to a great number of persons.
A full description of the details of this process
would, of itself, make a large and interesting
volume. For the purpose of the present work,
a brief outline will be sufficient, and possibly
superfluous, as we are to deal with the treatment
of the sugar as furnished by the refiners, leaving
to them the care and skill required to obtain
the beautiful white and crystalline lumps of sweet-
SUGAR. 45
ness which we propose to transform and modify
in many different ways, after we have re-
ceived it from their hands. The refining operations
are principally carried on in immense buildings
of great height, in order that the crude product
having once been raised to the highest story,
may in its succeeding treatment, which consists
mainly of a series of filtrations, pass from story
to story by its own gravity. The first step is to
dissolve the raw sugar in warm water. To this
solution a portion of lime is added to neutralize
any vegetable acids which may be present. Al-
bumen, in the form of fresh warm blood from
the slaughter-houses, is now introduced, and the
liquid brought to the temperature of 212°. The
albumen coagulates, and rises to the surface, bring-
ing with it many of the coarser impurities. The
liquor is now filtered through long cotton bags, and
thence into large iron cylinders filled with granu-
lated animal charcoal. The charcoal removes the
greater part of the coloring matter, and the sac-
charine solution, as it emerges from these cylinders,
is entirely free from impurities, save a small por-
tion of uncrystallizable sugar. By the subsequent
operation of evaporation in a vacuum-pan, the
46 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
sugar is crystallized, and being placed while
moist in concave moulds, the uncrystallized and
slightly colored portion drains away, leaving the
pure sugar in a compact mass of snowy whiteness.
These " loaves " are cut or broken by machinery,
and sold as " crushed sugar," or, wrapped in paper,
constitute the old-fashioned form of loaf sugar.
The syrup which drains from the sugar during the
last operation has a peculiarly pleasant flavor, and
is used as an almost indispensable accompaniment
to the buckwheat cakes of our winter tables.
The refining process is not always carried to
its full extent, a series of qualities being pro-
duced by subjecting the crude sugar to only one
or more of the operations described. We thus
have certain kinds known as half-refined sugars,
which are between the crude and loaf varieties
in point of purity.
The principal kinds usually found in our retail
stores are :
I. — Loaf Sugar. — This is the purest of all
varieties, great care being taken to remove the last
trace of uncrystallizable syrup and coloring matter.
SUGAR. 47
It is very white and hard, and is almost chemi-
cally pure cane sugar.
II. — Crushed Sugar. — For all practical pur-
poses this quality is as good as the above.
All the steps in the refining process are passed
through in its manufacture, save possibly a little
less care may be bestowed in obtaining that uni-
form whiteness so essential to the fine appearance
of the loaves. It must be remembered that this
variety is also first formed in loaves, which are
afterward broken into irregular fragments, or
sawn into small cubes.
III. — Granulated Sugar. — This variety dif-
fers from the above only in appearance, it being
prepared in the form of hard grains or small
crystals, giving it the appearance of coarse powder.
IV. — Pulverized Sugar. — This is in the
form of a fine white powder. It is prepared by
grinding the crushed or granulated sugar to the
requisite degree of fineness. One variety, not
commonly sold in grocery stores, is the icing or
lozenge sugar, prepared expressly for the use of
confectioners. It is simply a much finer form of
ground sugar.
48 IfOW TO MAKE CANDY.
V. — The partially refined Sugars of
VARIOUS GRADES, KNOWN AS COFFEE SUGAR, A,
B, AND C Sugars, or by the Special Brand
OF Individual Refiners. — These sugars vary in
color from a light brown to a nearly pure white,
but are coarse-grained and moist, from the re-
tention of a portion of the syrupy portions. They
have more or less flavor, which is not unpleasant
for many household purposes, but which unfits
them for use in some confections, but is no det-
riment to their use in candies which are strongly
flavored.
Action of Heat on Sugar. — In order
to practically understand the philosophy of candy-
making, and to obtain accurate information
regarding the modification which sugar undergoes
when heated, it will be interesting to take a
small quantity of crushed sugar, and placing
it in a clean brass or tinned kettle with a little
water, over a brisk fire, note the distinctive
changes which the application of different degrees
of heat will cause it to assume. At first we shall
see the lumps of sugar softening and breaking up,
and as the heat increases, entirely disappearing, a
SUGAR. 4c>
transparent solution being the result, more or less
thick according to the respective proportions of
the sugar and water. We have now a simple so-
lution of sugar in water, which, when made in
the proportion of ten or twelve pounds of sugar
to a gallon of water, is rightly termed in phar-
macy, simple syrup.
If our heat be now increased so that the syrup
boils, of course, with the evaporation of each par-
ticle of water, the remaining liquid becomes more
dense until it reaches a point where not enough
water remains to hold the sugar in perfect solu-
tion. If it now be set aside and allowed to cool
gradually, the excess of sugar will deposit itself
in large transparent crystals on the sides and bot--
tom of the vessel, and we shall have it in the
form usually known as rock-candy. If instead of
setting the solution aside for the crystals to form,
we continue the boiling, nearly all the water will
soon evaporate, and the sugar will manifest a ten-
dency to assume a granular condition, especially
upon the sides of the vessel. A few degrees more
of heat beyond this point, and we have the sugar
in a melted form, of a thick, pasty consistence,
but clear and transparent still.
3
so
HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
If we dip a spoon into the mass and with-
draw it, a long thread of the melted sugar will
follow, and if the portion removed be plunged
into cold water, it will at once become hard and
brittle as a pipestem. It has now reached that
condition where the confectioner by a few simple
manipulations can produce very many* changes in
its form and appearance, and it is from sugar
while in just this state that the greater number of
our candies are produced. But just here we must
be exceedingly careful in the management of our
heat. If that is now allowed to increase but a
little, the mass becomes quickly very dark colored,
froths up in the vessel, acquires a bitter taste, and
is no more fit to use as a confection. Several
technical names are applied by the confectioner to
the different degrees of heat to which the syrup
is raised in the various operations of candy-making. .
Thus we have the "thread," or 230° by the ther-
mometer, the "feather," or 235°, the "ball," or
240°, and the "crack," or 250°. After the last
comes the caramel at 260°, when the sugar
changes its character and becomes very dark col-'
ored, as before described. The greatest skill on
the part of the operator is required to push the
SUGAR. 51
heat of the boiling sugar just as near the point of
this change as possible without quite reaching it.
Prac'tically, the greater part of our hard-boiled
candies are made at about 250° of heat.
If made at a degree much less than this they
soften or change in structure, while the nearer the
heat can be carried to 260° the longer -do they
retain their hardness and transparency, if of a
class in which the latter quality is desirable.
It is not necessary for our purpose in this
work to dwell minutely upon the tests and char-
acteristics of the various degrees in a separate
paragraph. Special directions will be given regard-
ing the proper degree of heat for each variety,
when necessary, and it is believed that such
directions will be found of more practical applica-
tion than an attempt to refer constantly to general
principles. The latter method would perhaps be
more scientific, but the former will certainly prevent
any misunderstanding, even if a certain amount of
repetition is necessitated.
For boiling sugar, the confectioner has pans
of various sizes, especially adapted to his wants.
The directions hereafter given will, however, be
followed mostly by those who desire to prepare
52 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
the different sweets in small quantities only, for
their own use, or to supply the demand of the
home circle. At the present day hardly* a
kitchen will be found without some cooking uten-
sil which may be conveniently used for the purpose
described. A sauce-pan of tinned iron with a
handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate
the pouring of the contents, will be found best
adapted for such use. An ordinary iron pot, with
rounded bottom, will answer very well, but is apt
to discolor the candy, besides, being generally
quite thick, the heat will oftentimes be retained
too long and the sugar become burned, even after
removal from the fire. A small brass kettle will
do very well if kept quite clean and bright. The
porcelain-lined preserving kettles are especially
well fitted to be used in boiling sugar, so far as
cleanliness and freedom from burning is concerned.
The high heat to which they are subjected tends,
however, to crack the porcelain lining, especially
if the kettle is placed suddenly in cold water, as
is sometimes necessary when the heat of the boil-
ing sugar has been carried to the last degree, and
the heat of the vessel must be immediately reduced
to prevent burning. All things considered, the
CANDY FROM BOILED SUGAR e,
ordinary saucepan of tinned iron will be found
most convenient when but a small quantity is to
be treated.
Candies from Boiled Sugar.— No matter
how great a diversity of form, flavor, and general
appearance may characterize candies of this class,
the first step in the process of their manufacture
IS the same. This consists in bringing the sugar
to the state of a soft transparent mass of a
doughy texture, in which condition it may, by
different modes of treatment, be compelled to
assume many varying forms. This result may be
accomplished as follows. Take three and one-half
pounds of refined sugar," one and one-half pints
of water, and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
The latter is added for its peculiar effect assist-
ing greatly to prevent the tendency which sugar
always has when boiled to assume the granular
condition. Mix in a vessel sufficiently large to
allow for the expansion of the boiling candy,
that the boiHng process may go on uninterruptedly
without any danger of the contents running over
the sides of the vessel. Boil over a brisk fire,
taking care, however, that the sugar does not
54 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
burn. The heat should be apph"ed to the bottom
only, and not to the sides of the vessel, as in the
latter instance, small portions of the sugar may be-
come burned, and impart an unpleasant taste to
the rest.
After boiling for about fifteen minutes, a small
portion of the melted sugar may be removed
with a spoon and cooled by placing in a saucer
surrounded by cold water. If when cooled it
forms a viscid, tenacious mass, and if a portion
taken between the thumb and finger forms a long
adherent thread when the thumb and finger are
separated, the process of boiling is nearly com-
pleted, and great care must be used in the further
management of the heat, enough being supplied to
keep up the boiling without allowing the sugar to
be burned.
It must now be tested every few minutes by
dropping a small portion into some cold water
standing conveniently near. When the portion so
dropped becomes at once hard and brittle, snap-
ping apart like a pipe-stem when bent, the pro-
cess is completed, and the vessel should at once
be lifted from the heat. We now have our sugar
in a proper condition to be flavored, colored, and
FORMING INTO STICKS. 55
formed into sticks, bars, drops, or lumps as de-
sired. It is next poured into shallow earthen
dishes, which have previously been slightly greased,
large dinner-plates or pie-platters serving for this
purpose, and allowed to cool to a degree at which
it can be handled without discomfort. Confection-
ers employ for this purpose a smooth marble slab
with movable sides, arranged in such a way that,
if necessary, it may be kept warm with steam heat.
If a transparent form of candy is desired, the va-
rious flavoring and coloring ingredients are now
incorporated with as little handling as possible,
and when the mass has cooled sufficiently to retain
any shape which may be given it, the forming pro-
cesses commence. These are performed partly by
hand, and in the larger establishments partly by
machinery especially adapted to the purpose.
These processes consist chiefly of the following
operations :
Forming into Sticks. — If flat sticks are
wanted, it is only necessary to flavor and color the
mass, and pour while soft on square tin trays to
a depth as great as the thickness of the sticks.
When cool enough to retain its shape it is creased
56 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
with a spatula or knife, which is passed nearly-
through to the bottom of the tray, making it into
squares or lengths as wanted. When entirely
cooled the sticks will separate by a light stroke
in the lines marked by the knife.
If rounded sticks are to be made, the flavored
mass when cool enough to retain its shape, and
yet warm enough to be moulded, is rolled by the
hands into a cylindrical form, which is drawn
down to the proper diameter by continued pulling
from one end of the rounded mass, and cut in
sticks of the proper length.
Drops. — This form of candy may be made by
hand, by giving the mass a slightly oval shape
and drawing it out as for sticks. The drops are
cut off with a quick blow of a sharp knife, from
the end of the stick as fast as it is drawn out.
Machines are made for this purpose which consist
of two revolving cylinders, with depressions on
each side so arranged that as the cylinders revolve
these indentations come exactly opposite each other;
and the soft candy being forced therein by the
turning of the moulds, is crowded into the spaces,
and assumes the particular form which has been
WORKING THE CANDY. 57
given them. Another form of drop may be pre-
pared by pouring out the candy while warm, drop
by drop, on a groased plate or sheet of tin.
Working the Candy. — In the preceding
operations, a clear form of candy being desired,
as little handling of the transparent mass as pos-
sible should be allowed. If a white, opaque candy
is required, the mass, after being sufficiently cooled
to be easily handled, is pulled back and forth, in
the same manner that molasses candy is worked, a
process familiar to all. If the mass is large, a
hook, similar in appearance to those used in
butchers' stalls, is firmly fastened to the side of
the work-room, and the candy pulled out, folded,
and thrown back over the hook and again pulled,
the process being continued until the candy as-
sumes .a sufficiently white appearance. It may
then be formed in sticks or drops, as before de-
scribed.
In all these operations if the mass becomes
too stiff to be properly handled, it may be held
near the fire for a few minutes until it becomes
softened. The working process should take place
in a warm room.
58 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
Striping. — This process is in theory a very-
simple one. It requires much experience, however,
to overcome many practical difficulties which arise,
and to be able to prepare the sticks with regular
and well-arranged stripings. It is performed by
taking small portions from the warm mass and
coloring them any shade desired. These colored
portions are then drawn out into coarse but regu-
larly shaped strips, which are imbedded lengthwise
in the large roll of candy, and being drawn down
with it, diminish in size accordingly, until in the
finished stick they appear as delicate stripes. A
slight twist is sometimes given just before cutting
off the stick. The same principle is applied in
the manufacture of a form of candy having words,
or even short sentences and various ornamental
designs, running the entire length of the stick, so
that at whatever point it may be broken, the let-
ters or designs appear complete. This seemingly
mysterious effect is very easily produced. To illus-
trate: If the confectioner wishes the letter O to
appear in red running through the entire length of
a stick of white candy, he will first take a por-
tion of the warm white mass and form it in oval
shape for the centre. This he will surround
STRIPING.
evenly with red-colored candy, also in the same
condition. Around this he will place a thicker
coating of the white mass, which may be striped
if desired, and then by rolling the entire lump on
a marble slab and drawing it out, all parts of
the stick will be equally diminished and retain the
form originally given.
Having thus explained the general methods of
preparing the sugar which are employed in the
manufacture of all candies of this class, we will
proceed to give the special directions required for
the various kinds.
As remarked in the introduction, it must
be remembered that the form or ornamentation
of the candy by striping or otherwise, does not
add to its quality. Lemon candy, for instance, if
made from nice sugar and finely flavored, may be
left in the trays as poured from the kettle, and
when cold broken into lumps for eating; and the
taste of candy so made may be even superior to
that of more fanciful appearance. In making
boiled goods it is not necessary to use the finest
loaf or crushed sugar. The better grades of the
half refined sugars, such as are free from any de-
cided flavor of their own, will answer the purpose
6o HOl^' TO MAKE CAJVDV.
admirably, and the small portion of uncrystal-
lizable sugar or syrup naturally contained in them
will rather aid than hinder the production of a
hard form of candy, which is not as liable to re-
turn to the granular condition as if it were made
from a better grade of sugar.
Lemon Candy. — Into a bright tinned kettle,
thoroughly cleansed to free it from grease or odor
of vegetables if a kitchen utensil is employed,
put three and one half pounds of sugar, one
and one-half pints of water, and a full teaspoon-
ful of cream of tartar. Place over a hot fire
and stir until the lumps disappear. Boil briskly
until, by testing as before described, the candy
becomes hard and brittle when a little of
it is thrown into cold water. Now remove
the vessel from the fire and pour the contents
on a large earthen platter, previously greased with
a little butter. After the candy has cooled suffi-
ciently to be handled, and has reached the
consistence of ordinary dough, add about a tea-
spoonful of finely-powdered tartaric acid, and the
same quantity of extract of lemon, and work
them into the mass. The acid should be very
LEMON CANDY. 6i
fine and free from lumps. The mass should be
worked enough to distribute the acid and lemon
extract evenly, but no more, as too much handling
would tend to destroy its transparency. It may now
be formed into sticks or drops in the manner pre-
viously explained, or spread out flat on tins, in
thin sheets, which will easily break as required
when cold. We may add just here, that in this
and many subsequent operations it will be found
extremely convenient to have one or more flat tin
trays, made from the largest-sized sheets of tin,
and turned up at the edges about a half inch.
They should be kept smooth and clean without
scraping or scouring, and used instead of the
earthen dishes to cool the candy on.
Lemon candy, thus prepared, is beautifully
transparent, and of a very light straw color when
freshly made. Some makers add a few drops of
tincture of saff'ron just before removing from the
fire, which gives a bright yellow color, without
diminishing its clearness. It is usually sold in the
form of round sticks delicately striped with white,
in plain flat sticks, and in drops. After standing for
some time, especially if exposed to the air, this can-
dy assumes a granular texture and becomes opaque.
62 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
Pineapple, Banana, Raspberry, and
Strawberry Candies are prepared in pre-
cisely the same manner as lemon, so far as
regards the boiling of the sugar and adding of
the tartaric acid They are, however, flavored with
their respective extracts, and are generally sold by
confectioners in the form of drops of varying
shapes. The pineapple and banana are colored
a bright yellow, and the others a deep red.
In the large cities the candy flavored with
these extracts is often sold in the streets by
persons for whom it is made in the form of
large lumps, weighing ten or fifteen pounds. Be-
ing brightly colored it attracts much attention
from children, and the sales of these street ven-
ders are often quite extensive. It is broken off
in irregular lumps as wanted for use. In moder-
ate amounts its use is not particularly harmful,
as pure sugar must be used in order to produce
its attractive transparency.
It is, however, strongly flavored with acid and
possibly with more hurtful kinds than tartaric
acid, which should alone be used. The use of
very sour candy, even when pure materials are
employed in its preparation, is objectionable on
VARIOUS FLAVORS. (^2,
account of the stomach derangements which are
apt to follow if eaten in any but very moderate
amounts.
Peppermint, Wintergreen, Sassafras, Cin-
namon, Rose, Anise, Cloves, and other
flavors of Candy require no special directions,
the only difference in the methods of their pre-
paration being in the flavoring and color. The
flavoring is, of course, a matter of taste, the
respective -essential oils being employed for this
purpose in quantities depending upon the strength
of flavor desired. Usually from two to three
drams of pure oil will be found sufficient for a
three-pound boil. Custom has assigned to the
different flavors certain styles of appearance which
are generally followed. Thus the first five flavors
above mentioned are used with candy which is
worked until very white, and formed in sticks
with red stripes. Peppermint is usually finished
with broad red stripes ; wintergreen, with narrow
of the same color. Sassafras has one or two yel-
low stripes alternating with the red; while cinna-
mon and rose are slightly tinted with red before
being worked, leaving the body of the stick a
64 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
bright pink color, which is striped with a deeper
shade of red. Anise and clove are usually un-
worked and striped with red, or red and white.
The process of working the candy, by separating
the particles, of course increases its bulk. A
stick of worked candy, therefore, while weighing
no more than one of the transparent and solid
varieties, appears to be much larger, and presents
greater attractions to the juvenile mind intent on
getting the full value of its penny investment.
Cream Candy. — The term " cream " is so
indiscriminately applied to many styles of candy,
that it has almost ceased to have a specific meaning
unless in connection with some other explanatory
title.
Just here we mean the varieties sold by that
name in large irregularly flattened sticks, with
rough and striated surfaces. Its mode of manu-
facture does not differ materially from that of the
kinds already described, the same materials being
employed and in the same proportions. It requires
much working, however, and should therefore be
made in a warm room, and the mass kept as
soft as possible while being handled. Some con-
COCOANUT CANDY. 6^
fectioners add a little gum-arabic which serves to
prevent the granulation of the sugar and gives a
smoothness to the taste of the candy. If used,
one quarter ounce of pure white gum may be
dissolved in the water used before adding the
latter to the sugar. The principal flavors are
vanilla, rose, and orange. For vanilla, four or
five teaspoonfuls of the strong extract should be
used. Rose may be flavored with a i^^ff drops
of the pure oil, care being taken to obtain a
delicacy rather than an intensity of taste in this
flavor. For orange the oil of neroli is used, the
precaution just mentioned being observed. Va-
nilla cream candy is always left in its natural
white condition. Rose is tinted a delicate pink,
and orange a pale yellow.
To make chocolate cream candy of this vari-
ety, two ounces of chocolate of the best quality
should be finely grated and added during the
process of working, with one or two teaspoonfuls
of vanilla extract, and not to exceed twenty drops
of extract of bitter almond.
Cocoanut Candy.— This popular and delic-
ious confection is easily and cheaply made. First
66 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
prepare the cocoanut by removing the brown skin
from the meat of one nut and grating the latter
on a coarse grater. Confectioners have a machine
for this purpose, by which the cocoanut is re-
duced to the form of very thin and narrow slices,
but the product is quite as fine when grated.
Take three and a half pounds of best crushed
sugar, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one
and a half pints of water. Boil until the degree
termed by confectioners the "feather" is reached,
which may be known by dipping a tin skimmer
in the sugar, allowing nearly all the syrup to run
through, and then blowing hard through the holes.
If it has reached this degree the melted sugar
will be forced out through the holes of the skim-
mer in feathery filaments. Remove from the fire,
and when cooled a little commence to rub the
syrup with an iron spoon against the sides of
the vessel. Soon it will begin to assume a pasty
opaque appearance, when the grated cocoanut
should be added, and the stirring continued for a
few minutes. The soft mass may now be poured
into frames to set, or dropped in cakes on flat
tins.
If desired of the bright red color in which
PEPPERMINT DROPS. 67
it is so often seen, the boiling of the sugar should
be continued a few moments longer, and the red
coloring described in a former chapter added, be-
fore the sugar is cooled and the cocoanut mixed
therewith. The brown variety of cocoanut bar is
made by using the same quantity of dark brown
sugar, with a half pint of molasses, and one pint
of water.
Peppermint Drops. — These are great favo-
rites with children, and were it generally known
with how much ease they can be made at home,
much enjoyment would be afforded the young
people by their preparation.
Take of dry granulated sugar a convenient
quantity. Place it in a saucepan having a lip
from which the contents may be poured or drop-
ped. Add a very little water, just enough to make
with the sugar a stiff paste ; two ounces of wa-
ter to a pound of sugar is about the right
proportion. Set it over the fire and allow it to
nearly boil, keeping it continually stirred. It must
not actually come to a full boil, but must be re-
moved from the fire just as the bubbles denoting
that the boiling point is reached begin to rise. Al-
68 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
low the syrup to cool a little, stirring all the time,
add strong essence of peppermint to suit the taste,
and ■ drop on tins or sheets of smooth white pa-
per. The dropping is performed by tilting the
vessel slightly, so that the contents will slowly run
out, and with a small piece of stiff wire the
drops may be stroked off on to the tins or paper.
They should then be kept in a warm place for a
few hours to dry. If desired, a little red coloring
may be added just previous to dropping, or a por-
tion may be dropped in a plain white form, and
the remainder colored.
There is no reason why peppermint should
alone be used with this form of candy, but con-
fectioners usually confine themselves to this flavor.
Any flavor may be added, and a great variety of
palatable sweets made In the same manner. If
desired, these drops may be acidulated by the use
of a little tartaric acid and flavored with lemon,
pineapple, or banana. In the season of fruits, de-
licious drops may be made by substituting the
juice of fresh fruits, as strawberry, raspberry, etc.,
for the water, and otherwise proceeding as directed.
MOLASSES CANDY. 69
Molasses Candy. — This is especially a con-
fection for home manufacture. Indeed, the term,
" old-fashioned molasses candy," is now employed
as a title of merit by the confectioner, to indicate
the similarity* of his products with that made by
our grandmothers in the days when French bonbojts
were a rarity seldom seen outside of the very
large cities. Its manufacture was often conducted
in the large iron kitchen pot, over a fire of glowing
hickory coals, and made the occasion for many
merry gatherings.
" Old-Fashioned " Molasses Candy.— Into
a kettle holding at least four times the amount of
molasses to be used, pour a convenient quantity of
good Porto Rico molasses. Place over a slow fire
and boil for a half hour, stirring all the time, to
diminish as much as possible the increase of bulk
caused by boiling, and checking the fire or remov-
ing the kettle if there is any danger of the con-
tents running over. Be very careful not to let the
candy burn, especially near the close of the boil-
ing. When a little dropped in cold water becomes
quickly hard and snaps apart like a pipestem,
add a teaspoon ful of carbonate of soda, free
70 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
from lumps, to every two quarts, stir quickly to
mix, and pour on greased platters to cool. When
the candy is sufficiently cool to handle without
burning the hands, it is pulled back and forth, the
hands being rubbed with a little butt'fer to prevent
the candy from 'sticking to them. Flour is some-
times used for this purpose, but it gives an
unpleasant taste to the candy. The more the candy
is worked, the lighter it will be in color, but if made
from molasses only, it will be of a bright yellowish-
brown shade, and never so white as that sold by the
confectioners for molasses candy. Frequently some
flavor is added, as vanilla or lemon, but the nat-
ural flavor of the boiled molasses is generally
preferred.
White Molasses Candy. — Take two pounds
of refined sugar of the grade termed by the
grocers " Coflee C," one pint of pure sugar-house
syrup, and one pint best Porto Rico or New Or-
leans molasses. Boil together until it hardens, as
before described, when dropped in cold water, add
one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and work in
the usual manner. This style of molasses candy is
that made by the large confectioners, and is, in fact, a
TAFFY. 71
sugar candy flavored a little with molasses. It is
essential that the syrup used be that obtained
from the draining of loaf sugar in the refining
process. Much of the so-called sugar-house syrup
is in reality nothing but a syrup of glucose, and
is manufactured from starch. It may be known
by its dark color and viscid consistence, resem-
bling thick mucilage. It is also less sweet to the
taste than the pure sugar syrup.
Taffy. — Either of these two kinds of molasses
candy, if poured from the kettle into tin trays
without working, will produce a fine, plain taffy.
It may be left in one sheet, the size of the tray
in which it is poured, or, when slightly cooled,
may be marked off in squares.
Everton Taffy. — This is a favorite English
confection. To make it, take three pounds of
best brown sugar, and boil with one and one
half pints of water, until the candy hardens in
cold water. Then add one half pound of sweet-
flavored, fresh butter, which will soften the candy.
Boil a few minutes until it again hardens, and
pour into trays. Flavor with lemon if desired*
72 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
Butter Scotch. — The same as above, for all
practical purposes. Some makers, however, sub-
stitute molasses, or syrup, in place of the water.
Butter Scotch is sometimes imported, at a high
price, but the process of its manufacture is very
simple. It is generally cut in small squares, each
one of which is wrapped in tin foil, and twelve
or more of these wrapped in one packet.
Walnut Candy. — The meats of hickory nuts,
English walnuts, or black walnuts may be used,
according to preference in that regard. After
removal from the shells in as large pieces as prac-
ticable, they are to be placed on the bottoms of
tins, previously greased, to the depth of about a
half inch. Next boil two pounds of brown sugar,
a half pint of water, and one gill of good mo-
lasses until a portion of the mass hardens when
cooled. Pour the hot candy on the meats and
allow it to remain until hard. Of course it is
needless to direct regarding the proportion of
meats to the candy, it being a matter of taste
entirely. Molasses alone may be used to prepare
the candy, but the use of sugar gives a more sat-
isfactory result.
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. 73
Peanut Candy. — Prepare the meats by re-
moving the thin reddish skin in which they are
enveloped, and fill a tin tray to the depth of
about an inch. Pour over them the hot candy,
made as above directed, stirring the meats that
each one may be covered. A little less candy
should be used than will suffice to entirely cover
the mass of meats, though each separate one
should be coated, the object being to use just
enough of the candy to cause the meats to adhere
firmly to each other, thus forming a large cake,
which when nearly cold may be divided in squares
or bars with a sharp knife. Almonds, deprived of
their skins, or the meats of any nuts may be used
in a similar manner.
Chocolate Caramels. — Boil one quart of good
New Orleans molasses until it hardens when tested
by cooling a little of it in water as before de-
scribed. Just before removal from the fire add
four ounces of chocolate finely and uniformly grated.
Pour a thin layer into tin trays slightly greased,
and when the surface of the candy has become
hardened a little, mark with a knife into squares,
These caramels may be flavored with vanilla or
4
74 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
almond if desired, but the natural flavor of the
chocolate and molasses is generally preferred with-
out addition.
Corn Balls. — The method of preparing these
popular articles is a very easy one, the popped
kernels of corn being simply united by some
sweet adherent material and formed in the
shape of balls. The candy for this purpose does
not need to be boiled until hard, but just
enough to acquire sufficient firmness to hold the
corns without separating. Sometimes a little gum
is added, especially if a fine white appearance of
the ball is desired. In such cases the following
directions will be found to produce a fine article.
Add one ounce of white gum arable to a half
pint of water and let it stand until dissolved.
Strain, add one pound of refined sugar, and boil
until when cooled it becomes very thick, so much
so as to be stirred with difficulty. To ascertain
when it has reached this point, a little may be
cooled in a saucer. A convenient quantity of the^
freshly popped corn having been placed in a large
milkpan, enough of the warm syrupy candy is
poured on and mixed by stirring, to cause the
HOREHOUND CANDY. 75
kernels to adhere in a mass, portions of which
may be formed into balls by pressing them into
the proper shape with the hands.
Ordinary molasses or sugar-house syrup may be
used as well, by being boiled to the same degree,
no gum being necessary with these materials.
Most of the corn balls sold by pedlers are thus
made, the flavor of the cooked molasses combining
very agreeably with that of the corn.
Corn cake is' prepared in a similar manner,
the popped corn being finely divided by machinery,
and made into a mass with boiled molasses. This
mass while warm is pressed by heavy rollers into
thin sheets, which are afterwards divided into small
square cakes.
Horehound Candy. — In the form of flat
sticks and drops this candy is sold in large quan-
tities, on account of its supposed efficacy as a
remedy for coughs. It is undoubtedly a pleasant
palliative in such complaints, and its continued use
leads to the inference that its virtues have favora-
bly stood the test of experience. It is very easily
made, and the preparation of a supply for use
during the season when colds and bronchial
76
HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
complaints are prevalent, will form a pleasant
occupation for the cold evenings of early winter.
To make it, first prepare a strong decoction
by boiling two ounces of the dried herb in
a pint and a half of water for about half an
hour. This decoction is then strained and added
to three and one half pounds of brown sugar.
Boil over a hot fire until it reaches the requisite
degree of hardness, when it may be poured out
in flat tin trays, previously well greased and
marked into sticks or small squares with a knife
as it becomes cool enough to retain its shape.
Cough Candy. — So many varieties of candy
under this name are in the market, that it would be
a difficult task to describe their points of difference.
They are all, however, prepared from brown sugar,
boiled as described in the last paragraph, using
water instead of the decoction.
They are flavored or medicated with camphor,
anise, cayenne pepper, and peppermint, in varying
proportions to suit the taste of the maker, and
are usually sent out in the form of drops in small
packages.
In some cases the mass is worked and drawn
COUGH CANDY,
77
out in rolls, which are wrapped singly in circulars
extolling the efficacy of the candy enclosed, as a
sovereign remedy for every form of throat and lung
complaint. The real virtues possessed by such
candies are naturally greatly overrated by the
manufacturers. As a simple remedy, to relieve the
irritation arising from a slightly inflamed condition
of those portions of the throat which are within
reach of their action, such candies may at times
serve a valuable purpose, and by subduing the
tendency to cough, give the organs time to re-
cover their natural tone. It would be very unsafe,
however, to trust solely to their curative powers
in the case of a hard cold affecting the throat or
lungs. The following directions for preparing one
form of this candy will serve as a guide in all
cases, the difference being only in the quantity or
kinds of the flavoring ingredients. Boil three and
one half pounds of ordinary brown sugar with
one and a half pints of water until it hardens
when tested in the usual way. To this add,
just prior to removal from the fire, a tincture
prepared thus : To one half ounce of strong al-
cohol add one dram of camphor gum, when
dissolved add two drams oil of anise, four drams
78 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
strong tincture of capsicum, one dram benzoic
acid.
Another very popular form of cough candy is
prepared by making a decoction, by boiling two
ounces of boneset and one half ounce of ground
bloodroot in a pint and a half of water, and
using this decoction with three and one-half pounds
of brown sugar, in the same manner as directed
for horehound candy. When about to be poured
out in trays or worked, it may be flavored with
oil of anise.
Cream Bonbons.
In a former paragraph the indiscriminate
use of the term " cream " by confectioners
was referred to. The employment of this
term for the class of goods the manufacture
of which we are about to describe, is, how-
ever, perfectly legitimate, the sugar being prepared
in such a manner that it has a rich "creamy"
taste, melting in the mouth like the delicious sub-
stance from which it is named. From sugar thus
prepared the choicest and highest-priced confec-
tions are made. The different kinds which may
be produced by variations in form, color, and fla-
''CREAMING'' THE SUGAR. 79
vor, are almost innumerable, and are constantly-
being changed to suit the popular desire for
novelties, but the groundwork of all these trans-
formations, that is, the special treatment of the
sugar, remains the same. To this treatment, there-
fore, attention is first invited.
" Creaming " the Sugar. — Take one pound
of best loaf or crushed sugar, a small teaspoonful
of pure acetic acid, or a half teaspoonful of
cream of tartar and a gill and a half of water.
Place over a brisk fire and boil to what is termed
the "thread" degree, that is, to about 235° by
the thermometer. This degree may be ascertained
sufficiently for all practical purposes, by removing
a small portion of the boiling sugar, cooling it in
a saucer, and testing by dipping in it the thumb
and finger; if on separating them the syrup is
thick enough to be drawn out in the form of a
long thread without breaking, the boiling is suffi-
ciently advanced. Now set the syrup aside and
let it cool a little, say for fifteen minutes. The
creaming is next produced by rubbing the syrup
against the sides of the vessel with a large wooden
spoon. At first no effect may be perceptible, but
8o HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
by continuing the process the syrup begins to
lose its transparency and becomes opaque and
white at the side where it is being rubbed. As
fast as each portion passes into this condition it
is stirred into the mass and the rubbing process
continued, until at last the entire mass has become
of a beautifully white and creamy texture.
This process is usually conducted by confec-
tioners on a large marble slab, slightly warmed,
the syrup being poured thereon and rubbed back
and forth with long spatulas. After this gran-
ular, creamy condition has been produced, the
sugar may be thinned, if necessary, with a very
little water, that it may drop more readily into the
moulds. The water must, however, be added only
a few drops at a time, as it is an easy matter to
get the inass too soft. Usually the flavoring liquids
will be sufficient. The sugar thus prepared is now
ready to be colored, flavored, and formed in the
many varying styles which have been devised by
the ingenuity of confectioners.
Starch Moulds — Owing to the peculiar soft-
ness and lack of adherence of the sugar in the
creamy state, a special treatment is necessary in
STARCH MOULDS. 8i
forming it into any desired shape. If cast in or-
dinary moulds, the bonbons could not easily be
extracted without breaking. To remedy this diffi-
culty, temporary moulds are constructed of finely-
powdered starch, which substance, being still less
adhesive than the sugar, may easily be removed
when the latter has received its shape. This pro-
cess differs from other modes of casting in moulds
in that the latter are in this instance removed
from the objects cast, while usually the reverse is
the case, the objects cast being taken from the
moulds.
The construction of these starch moulds is
very simple, requiring no utensils but those found
in general household use, or which may readily be
extemporized from a shallow tin tray or wooden
box. The best form is a square wooden tray, two
or three inches in depth, which is filled with finely-
powdered starch, the top of which is smoothed even
with the sides of the tray. A number of pieces
of wood or plaster models of the exact size and
shape of the articles to be cast are fastened at
regular distances from each other on a flat board.
By pressing these forms firmly upon the surface of
the powdered starch, indentations of corresponding
4*
82 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
shape are of course produced therein, and the
starch is sufficiently firm to retain the shape of
these indentations when filled with the liquid
sugar.
After the sugar has set and become firm
enough to retain its form without breaking if care-
fully handled, the bonbons may be lifted from the
starch by running the fingers underneath, or starch
and all may be placed in a coarse sieve, which
being gently shaken will allow the fine dry starch
to fall through, leaving the bonbons on the sieve.
They are next allowed to harden slightly on the
surface, by exposure to the air in a dry place,
and are then ready to be covered with crystallized
sugar, or other materials, if desired.
Crystallizing — This process consists in de-
positing a coating of fine crystals of pure sugar
upon the surface of the bonbons, thereby giving
them a finer appearance, and, by protecting them
from the air, causing them to retain their mois-
ture for a much longer time. It really adds little
to the fine taste of these confections, and may be
dispensed with when they are made for home use
only. The process is a simple one, but requires
CRYSTALLIZING. %^
some little care to ensure uniform results. It may-
be conducted as follows. To two pounds of sugar
add one half pint of water. Boil until the sugar
is entirely dissolved. The articles to be crystallized
are to be placed on wire frames in a tin box
and entirely covered with the above prepared syrup,
to which, just before pouring into the box, should
be added one ounce of pure alcohol.
The whole should be kept at a moderately
warm tei^iperature, say about 70°, and allowed to
remain undisturbed for ten or twelve hours.
Near the end of this time the goods should be
examined, and if sufficiently crystallized, the super-
fluous syrup may be drained off.
They are then dried by a gentle heat and are
ready for use. The principle upon which this pro-
cess is conducted may be easily understood.
Water, when cold, will of course retain only a
certain amount of sugar in solution. If heated,
however, a much larger proportion of sugar may
be introduced, which will be retained in solution
so long as the high temperature is maintained.
When the syrup begins to cool the particles of
sugar which can no longer be held therein, assum-
ing a crystalline form are deposited on the
84 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
surfaces of the bonbons or other articles which
may be ready to receive them. The addition of
the alcohol still further diminishes the solvent
power of the syrup and tends to hasten the pro-
cess. If very fine crystals are desired, its use is
not recommended.
Lemon Bonbons. — To one pound of sugar
brought to a " creamy " condition in the manner
described, add the very finely grated outer peel of
three or four average sized lemons, and enough of
the juice to impart a pleasant acid taste. The
juice of one lemon will usually suffice for this
purpose. The outer yellow rind only should bQ
used, rejecting the white and bitter inner portion.
Mix thoroughly with the sugar and drop into the
depressions in the starch moulds. Allow the bon-
bons to remain in the moulds until hardened suf-
ficiently on the outside to be removed without
breaking, then take them carefully away and allow
them to remain for twenty-four hours in a moder-
ately warm place. They rnay then be crystallized.
Orange Bonbons.— Prepare as above, using
only thoroughly ripened oranges. Those with a
BONBONS. 85
bright yellow rind are to be preferred, as their rich
color adds greatly to the appearance of the bon-
bons. Both lemon and orange bonbons may be
prepared by using their respective flavoring extracts
and a little citric or tartaric acid, but they are not
as fine as when made directly from the fruit.
Chocolate Bonbons. — To one pound of the
creamed sugar, add two ounces of finely grated
chocolate of gocJd quality, or the chocolate may be
melted over boiling water and added to the sugar,
any lumps being rubbed out against the sides of
the vessel.
Flavor with vanilla or bitter almond extracts.
The latter should be used only sparingly, ten to
fifteen drops of extract being sufficient to flavor
a pound of sugar.
Almond Bonbons. — Remove the skins from
four ounces of almonds, by dipping them for a
moment in boiling water, which will cause the
skins to come off readily when rubbed. Pound the
white meats to a paste in a mortar, and add to
the creamed sugar. A few drops of bitter almond
extract will improve the flavor.
86 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
Walnut Bonbons. — Four ounces of walnut
meats are to be very finely chopped — not pounded
— and incorporated with a pound of the cream.
The meats of other nuts may be prepared in the
same manner and added.
Other Flavors. — It hardly seems necessary to
give specific directions for each flavor, after the
above illustrations, the same general course being
pursued in each instance. The variations which
may be produced are almost innumerable, yet af-
ter all consist in the incorporation of different
flavoring materials with the prepared sugar in
quantities depending upon the taste of the
maker. For this purpose may be used the various
flavoring extracts and the juices of fruits. The
flavors of some of the latter are however hardly
intense enough to communicate a pleasant taste,
unless used in such quantities as will reduce the
consistence of the sugar too much. The pulps
of. fruits made by boiling them with a little
sugar and passing through a fine sieve, are well
adapted for this purpose. Of such, raspberry,
strawberry, and plum, make the choicest bonbons.
Coloring the Bonbons. — This may be done
CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. 87
by using any of the colors described in a previous
chapter.. Frequently two colors are used in the
same bonbon. In this case, the indentations in
the mould are first only partly filled with the
sugar of one color, over which that of another
color is poured.
Chocolate Cream Drops. — From the entire
list of delicacies prepared by the confectioner
none can be selected which are more generally
liked than these. The retail prices asked for the
better qualities are, however, exorbitant, and tend
much to limit the consumption. There is no good
reason why such high prices should be asked. The
finest quality of plain chocolate should be ob-
tained for less than fifty cents per pound, and as
this substance is used only as a covering for the
cream and constitutes only about one-fifth of the
weight of the finished drops, the rest being sugar
at a much less price, the actual cost, aside from the
labor employed in their fabrication, ought not to ex-
ceed twenty-five or thirty cents a pound. These
prices refer to the finer grades, which are sold at
from eighty cents to one dollar or over per
pound, according to the location, fashionable or
88 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
otherwise, of the vender. For the common vari-
eties the cost is much less, large quantities of
starch and other more objectionable adulterants
being introduced. The popularity of these confec-
tions and the extreme ease with which they may
be prepared by even the most inexperienced ama-
teur confectioners, should tend to render their
manufacture a favorite pastime for all lovers of
pleasant and practical home amusements. Aside
from the great saving in cost when so prepared,
the entire freedom from adulteration should be
something of an inducement for undertaking their
manufacture. The process of such manufacture
may be divided into two steps : First, the forma-
tion of the "cream;" second, the covering oif the
same with the chocolate.
Preparation of the " Cream." — The process
given in a former paragraph relating to cream
bonbons, is the one usually employed by con-
fectioners who have proper facilities for preparing
it on a large scale. The product is no better,
however, if as good, as that made in the man-
ner to be described, but is somewhat more
economically obtained, when thus manufactured in
PREPARATION OF THE ''CREAMS 89
large quantities, from the fact that less manual
labor is needed in bringing the creams to their
proper shape. When so made the drops are formed
in starch moulds, and are somewhat more uniform
in size and shape than when made by hand only.
To prepare a delicious " cream " in a very simple
manner, it is only necessary to properly mix the
white of eggs with sugar and flavoring materials.
To be specific, the following directions are given,
the quantities named being, of course, subject to such
variation in amount as may be desired. Take the
white of one egg, beat it to a froth, adding an
equal bulk of water at the last. Into this stir
with a stiff spoon enough fine sugar to make a
doughy mass, sufficiently firm to retain its shape
when moulded with the hands. Another method
is to mix the paste of a somewhat thinner
consistence, just thick enough to pass readily
through the mouth of a biscuit forcer when pressed.
This tool may be readily extemporized by fastening
firmly a conical bag of very close-textured cloth
around a short tin tube. The bag being filled,
with the paste and drawn together at the top, a
gentle pressure will force the paste through the
tube. As it is forced out, the drops may be cut
po HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
off with a thin knife and dropped on a tin. Any
desired flavor may be imparted by adding of the
proper extract to suit the taste. It will be ob-
served that the adhesiveness of the white of the
egg is lessened by the addition of water. The
object of this is that only sufficient adhesion of the
particles of sugar may be produced to cause the
paste to retain its shape until covered with the
chocolate. If too much material of a gummy
character is mixed with the sugar, the cream will
become hard and brittle, thus entirely losing its
distinctive character. The sugar used must be
very fine. The kind used in the manufacture of
lozenges and described in the paragraph relating to
those confections, is the only kind which will af-
ford entirely satisfactory results. If it cannot
readily be procured, the ordinary pulverized sugar
of the grocer may be sifted and only the finer
portion used. A very passable cream may be
made by using such sugar in the state in which
it is ordinarily sold, but the grain is too coarse
•to give the peculiar smoothness which is the
chief characteristic of this confection.
Covering with Chocolate. — After mixing the
COVERING WITH CHOCOLATE. 91
sugar as just described, it is to be formed with
the hands into a uniformly tenacious mass, from
which small portions may be detached with the
thumb and finger and formed into little balls or.
conical-shaped drops, or a portion may be rolled
out on a board and pieces cut off and formed as
desired. These little balls of cream are placed as
fast as formed on a plate or sheet of tin, slightly
oiled, and allowed to harden slightly on the sur-
face. A half hour will generally be sufficient
time to allow for this purpose.
The preparation of the chocolate covering is
very simple, and is performed by placing a cake of
the best plain chocolate in an ordinary tin sauce-
pan, and setting the same into a kettle of boiling
water. No water need be added to the chocolate,
but under the influence of the heat thus applied, the
latter will slowly melt and become of a thick fluid
consistence.
The balls of cream may now be introduced one
or two at a time, and rolled in the chocolate for a
moment until ent^'rely covered. They are then to be
lifted by means of a fork, held for a moment that
the superfluous chocolate may drop back, and then
placed on a plate or tin slightly greased, and al-
92
HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
lowed to remain until cold. The entire process
of making several pounds of chocolate creams
need not occupy over an hour. A half pound
cake of chocolate will be sufficient to cover two
pounds of the creams.
The drops thus prepared will be found to be
far superior to those usually sold, if a fine quality
of chocolate be employed for the covering. The
finest drops, made by the Broadway confectioners,
are covered with chocolate which is sweetened and
flavored with vanilla. They have a delicious fla-
vor, and although really costing less, from the fact
that a less quantity of chocolate is used, sell for
a higher price than the plain drops.
The chocolate with which they are covered is
thus prepared. Take half a pound of the best
quality of chocolate, place it in a pan over boil-
ing water, and when softened by the heat add
half an ounce of gum arabic, previously dissolved
in two tablespoonfuls of hot water; stir the choc-
olate and gum together, until the mixture is
perfectly smooth, then add four ounces of fine
icing sugar, work it in well, flavor with a little
strong vanilla extract, and cover the cream balls
as before described. The cream may, of course,
CREAM WALNUTS. 93
be modified in flavor by the introduction of any
of the flavoring ingredients mentioned in the par-
agraph on cream bonbons.
It should be remembered, however, that all
■flavors will not pleasingly combine with that of
chocolate. Vanilla ^d bitter almonds are the
ones most used for this purpose.
Cream Almonds.— The cream having been
prepared as described for the chocolate drops, is
formed by the hand around the meats of the
almonds, which may be covered to any thickness
as desired. If rolled while moist in very fine gran-
ulated sugar, the outside will present a crystallized
appearance, or they may be allowed to harden on
the outside, and crystallized in a solution of sugar,
in the ordinary manner.
Cream Walnuts.— The meats of the English
walnut having been removed from the carefully
cracked nuts in such a manner that the separate
halves remain unbroken, form by the addition of
the prepared cream, a fine confection. For this
purpose the cream should be made of a thick,
pasty consistence, not so firm as when used for
94 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
the confections just described. When so prepared,
a portion is spread with a knife on the inner sur-
face of a half meat and another half pressed
upon it. Just enough of the cream should be
used that the meats may be firmly imbedded
therein, without being covered. The meats of the
hickory nut may be used ' m the same manner.
The cream should be flavored only a very little,
vanilla being best suited to combine well with
the natural taste of the walnut.
Gum Drops. — When Gum Arabic is dissolved
in water, and the mucilage thus formed is exposed
to the air ; by the evaporation of a portion of the
water a hard crust of gum forms on the surface
of the mixture, which tends to prevent any further
evaporation, and the inside portion will consequently
remain in a liquid state for a long time. In a
similar way are made the favorite confections
known as gum drops, which are simply a mixture
of gum arabic and sugar, flavored in various ways,
and formed into small conical shaped drops, the
outside of which becoming slightly hardened,
causes the inside to remain in that soft condition
which is characteristic of this confection. The
GUM DROPS. 95
addition of the sugar, besides being necessary on
account of its sweetness, prevents the gum from
assuming that condition of flinty hardness which
it would otherwise do, and renders it softer and
more soluble in the mouth.
Gum Drops can very easily be manufactured
by the " home talent " of any intelligent household.
To prepare the mixture of gum and sugar, take
one pound of good gum arable and dissolve it in
one and a half pints of water. Strain, and add
one pound of refined sugar. Heat until the sugar
is entirely dissolved. The mixture should be evap-
orated until of the consistence of very thick
honey, so thick that it will flow only very slowly
from the lip or spout of the vessel containing it.
Next fill a shallow box with fine starch, and hav-
ing smoothed the surface, proceed with a stick,
having a rounded end, of the size desired in the
finished gum drop, to make indentations in the
starch, as thickly together as can be done without
disturbing the shape of one by the formation of
another. Round buttons of wood may be fastened
to a flat board, if desired, and the entire set of
indentations prepared at once by pressing the
board on the surfaee of the starch.
96 NO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
The mixture of gum and sugar should now be
placed in a vessel having a long lip or spout, and
as the liquid is poured slowly out, a portion just
sufficient to fill each indentation should be stroked
off with a wire and allowed to drop therein. Any
flavor may be obtained by using enough of the de-
sired flavoring extract to suit the taste, and a little
color may be added if wanted. These should
be added while the mixture is warm. When the
mould is filled it must be set in a warm place for
several days, until the drops are sufficiently hard-
ened on the outside to bear handling without
breaking. They may then be removed from the
starch, and crystallized in the manner described
in the paragraph relating to bonbons
Of course this process is unnecessary where the
drops are to be used in a short time, and is em-
ployed principally to improve the appearance of
goods. Only pure gum arabic is used in the man-
ufacture of the best qualities of these confections.
Those made to sell at a low price, especially
those used in the " mixed candies," sold so freely
by the sidewalk venders, are made from corn-starch
prepared as described in the paragraph on Fig
Paste, to which ordinary glue is sometimes added.
LOZENGE MAKING.
Lozenge Making.
The Lozenge is one of those forms of con-
fectionery the consumption of which is more uni-
form and less affected by caprice on the part of
consumers than any other. At nearly all seasons,
and with all persons, these aromatic disks find
favor. Aside from the great quantity consumed
for the gratification of the taste alone, many are
employed as a pleasant vehicle for the adminis-
tration of some medicinal substance, and especially
IS this the case with the numerous troches and
similar compounds used for the alleviation of va-
rious affections of the throat. Such employment
of these confections suggests, therefore, a natural
division of the description of the process of their
manufacture into two parts.
I. Aromatic and Fruit Lozenges.
The manufacture of this class of confections
IS quite simple, and the ingredients for each kind
are few in number. For the varieties most in use
gum, sugar, and flavoring material are alone re-
quired.
Preparation of the Gum.— Only the better
5
98
HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
qualities of gum arabic should be employed. It
is not necessary to use the very whitest and
most expensive sorts, but it should be free from
dirt and not too dark, save for colored lozenges.
To two ounces . of the gum, coarsely ground if
convenient, add four ounces of warm water and
allow the mixture to stand until the gum is dis-
solved, which will take from twelve to twenty-four
hours, according to the size of the pieces.
The mucilage thus formed, after being strained
through fine muslin gauze to remove any par-
ticles of foreign matter, is ready for use. Only
the quantity needed for each operation should
be prepared, since if allowed to stand for a few
days, it becomes sour and acquires an unpleasant
taste.
Sugar. — The finely pulverized sugar sold by
grocers will answer very well for the preparation
of lozenges for home use, but confectioners em-
ploy a kind especially prepared for their purposes.
This variety may be obtained from any dealer in
confectioners' supplies, or in a small way from
the confectioners themselves. It is simply refined
sugar reduced to a very fine powder, as fine as
MIXING THE MATERIALS, 99
flour, and if obtained from respectable dealers, is
entirely pure. It is known as lozenge or icing
sugar, and aside from its use for this particular
purpose, is employed in the manufacture of many
other forms of confectionery described in other
pages of this work. By many unprincipled manu-
facturers of the cheap candies retailed on the
streets and in the lower classes of stores, large
quantities of a peculiar form of calcareous earth
termed terra alba are employed to adulterate
lozenges as well as other confections.
The fraud may be easily detected by allow-
ing the suspected goods to dissolve in water;
if of pure sugar, the solution will be transparent,
while if adulterated the particles of foreign mat-
ter will settle to the bottom.
Flavoring Materials. — A general description
of these has already been given. The particular
form to be employed in each instance, whether
an essential oil, an aromatic substance, or an ex-
tract, will be stated in each of the succeeding
formulae.
Mixing the Materials. — This process is so
simple that a. very short description will suffice*
roo
HO W TO MAKE CAND Y.
The powdered sugar, in such quantity as may be
desired, is placed in a pan or on a large mould-
ing board, and into a depression made in the
centre of the sugar, a little of the mucilage,
prepared as already described, is poured. This is
worked up with the sugar, at first with a stiff
spoon, but as it loses its pasty consistence and
becomes more like dough by the admixture of
more sugar, the hands may be employed.
In brief, the process is precisely the same as
that employed by the cook in mixing yeast and
flour to make the sponge for bread. If the dough
becomes too stiff a little more mucilage may be
added; if too pasty, more sugar is required. The
hardness of the lozenge depends upon the thick-
ness of the mucilage. If very thick with gum the
product will be hard, and will dissolve more
slowly in the mouth. If less gum be used, the
lozenge will be softer in texture. The exact con-
sistence to be given to the mass before cutting
is difficult to describe, but a very little experience
will enable the operator to adjust the proportions
of sugar and mucilage. If too much of the lat-
ter is employed, the ' mass will stick to the slab
while being rolled. This trouble may be corrected
MIXING THE MATERIALS. loi
by the addition of more sugar. On the contrary,
if the mass is inclined to crumble, the addition
of a very little mucilage will remedy the difficulty.
The mass when rightly prepared will roll out, and
cut easily without adherence to the edge of the
cutting tool.
An ordinary wooden roller may be employed to
reduce the mass in successive portions to the
desired thickness.
For home use, the thickness of these portions
may be regulated by the eye, a little variation
being of no consequence. If uniform thickness is
desired, it is necessary to place upon the ends of
the rollers, bands of metal about a half inch in
width and of the same thickness as that to be
given to the finished lozenges. The same result
may be effected by cutting away in a turning
lathe a portion of the roller to the requisite depth,
leaving flanges of the right thickness on each side.
The rolling out of the mass should preferably
be conducted on a smooth marble slab, the mass
being occasionally dusted with powdered starch to
prevent its adherence. A smooth, hard-grained
board, such as is used for moulding bread, will
answer, if the slab cannot conveniently be procured.
102 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
Forming the Lozenge. — For this purpose a
cutter is employed, which may easily be procured
from a tinsmith at a small expense.
It consists of a tin tube about four inches
in length, the diameter of the smaller end being
that of the lozenge to be cut.
The diameter of the larger end should exceed
that of the smaller by about one fourth of an
inch. The tapering form thus given insures a
smooth cut of the lozenge, and a free delivery
without the mutilation which would be caused by
the adherence of the mass to the sides of the
cutter, if straight.
The edges forming the joint should be
brought together and soldered without lapping.
The cutting edge is to be made sharp by a fine
file, and when dulled, may be restored in the
same manner.
Large manufacturers sometimes employ cutters
of steel, which are of course more durable.
The mass having been rolled to the proper
thickness, is lightly dusted with a little fine
starch, and the putter being quickly and forcibly
pressed upon the yielding mass and withdrawn,
brings with it a perfectly-formed lozenge. By re-
FORMING THE LOZENGE. 103
peating the process, the tube of the cutter is
quickly filled, and its contents are then strewn
upon a flat tray or board and placed in a room
of moderately warm temperature to dry. The
deftness of manipulation attained by expert work-
men in this branch of confectionery is interesting
to witness. Quickly seizing just the right quantity
of the saccharine dough, a few sweeps of the
roller suffices to bring it to a uniform thickness.
The lower portion of the cutter is then grasped
with the ends of the thumb and the first two fin-
gers, and with motions as quick as those of a
piano player, the arm sweeps across the table,
the individual cutting motions being hardly percep-
tible, and the contents of the cutter are emptied
on a tray kept in waiting by a boy whose duty
it is to remove the finished lozenges as fast as a
tray is filled by a workman. These are at once
placed in the drying room, where a current of
dry heated air is constantly passing over the
trays, and in a few hours the goods have ac-
quired the requisite degree of hardness for safe
handling without breaking. Of course the shape of
the lozenge may be varied at will by a correspond-
ing change in the form of the cutting edge.
I04 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
Frequently fanciful effects are produced by
coloring portions of the mass of various tints.
These colored portions are rolled separately to
nearly the required thickness, and then, after
placing one on the other, slightly moistening the
surfaces to be brought in contact, the entire
sheet thus formed may be rolled to the proper
thickness. A layer of red lozenge mass may
thus be placed on white, and the finished lozenge
will be of these respective colors on its opposite
sides. Motto lozenges are made by means of
small stamps containing a word or sentence in
relief. These are lightly touched on a cloth
which has been moistened with the desired tint,
and pressed upon the freshly-cut lozenges.
Piping. — Instead of being cut into lozenges,
the mass is sometimes prepared in the shape of
small cylindrical sticks. In the large way, this is
accomplished by forcing the soft mass through tubes
of the proper shape and size, and cutting the
cylinders thus produced into any required length.
The same shape may be obtained by rolling por--
tions of the mass on a slab with a thin flat
board. The ribbed varieties of pipings, into
which coltsfoot rock and bath pipe are sometimes
CINNAMON. . 105
formed, and all shapes except the cylindrical, can
be made only in the manner first described,
the changes in shape being effected by variously
formed tubes.
Various Flavors of Lozenges.
Anise. — To one pound of sugar add from
thirty to forty drops of pure oil of anise cut
with a little alcohol. The ordinary oil of star
anise is universally employed by confectioners,
but is not nearly so delicate in flavor as that
obtained from the seed.
Clove. — To each pound of sugar add of the
pure oil of cloves to suit the taste, being careful
not to flavor too strongly. Twenty to thirty
drops will suffice for the taste of most persons.
Cinnamon. — To each pound of sugar add
twenty drops of the oil of Ceylon cinnamon. If
this variety of oil were oftener used, its flavor
would soon become popular. Unfortunately only
the ordinary oil of cassia is employed save in
the high-priced lozenges of foreign manufacture,
5*
io6 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
or the goods sent out by the best confectioners
for the finest retail trade. It is the fashion to
give to lozenges of this flavor a bright pink or
red color,
Cayenne. — To each pound of sugar add forty
to fifty drops of the strong extract of Cayenne
pepper made as heretofore described. The de-
mand for this particular flavor is quite limited,
and the lozenges are chiefly used for the purpose
of playing harmless 'jokes upon the unwary.
These are also colored a light red.
Currant. — Take equal parts of fine currant
jelly and a very thick mucilage of gum arabic :
mix and add sugar until the mass is of the
proper consistence. The pulp of any preserved
fruit may be substituted for the jelly, and many
varieties of flavors be thus produced.
The black currant lozenge, prepared from the
pulp of the English fruit, is a favorite remedy
for the alleviation of throat difficulties.
Chocolate. — To one half pound of Baker's
best chocolate melted over boiling water, add
four ounces of hoi thick mucilage of gum arabic,
GINGER. 107
and continue the heat until the mixture is
brought to a uniform consistence. Add sufficient
sugar to bring it to a proper state for rolling,
and proceed as before directed. If the mass
shows a tendency to harden, it may be slightly
warmed. Only a little should be mixed at a
time, and the cutting operation should be per-
formed as quickly as possible.
Cachou. — To one pound of lozenge mass,
prepared with sugar and gum mucilage in the
usual way, add thirty to fifty drops of the flavor-
ing extract, made according to the formula given
in the paragraph relating to cachous. A bright
red color is usually given to the mass, and the
lozenges are cut quite small and thin.
Ginger. — The extract of Jamaica ginger here-
tofore described, may be used in the proportion
of a teaspoonful of the extract to a pound of
sugar, or stronger if desired. The pure ground
ginger may also be incorporated with the sugar
before it is made into a mass. When so used it
should be sifted through a very fine sieve, to re-
move the fibrous portions of the. root.
io8 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
Lemon. — To each pound of lozenge mass
add twenty to thirty drops of pure oil of lemon,
or a teaspoonful of good extract. This flavor is
not often used from the fact that it spoils very
quickly when exposed to the air, though while
fresh, the lozenges thus prepared are very fine.
A very little tartaric acid, just enough to impart
a pleasant sour taste, may be added if desired.
Color yellow with a few drops of tincture of tu-
meric.
Musk. — The true perfume of the musk is
very difficult to procure in a pure state. Its use
is confined chiefly to the preparation of extracts
for the handkerchief, and when so used it is
generally compounded with other substances, so
that even the best extract of musk designed to
be used as a perfume cannot be employed for
flavoring purposes. It will hardly be practicable,
therefore, to prepare lozenges of this flavor in a
small way, unless an absolutely pure extract can
be purchased from some reliable druggist. The
extract is prepared as follows : One ounce of
pure pod musk, or three quarters of an ounce
of pure grain musk is added to one quart of
PEPPERMINT. 109
diluted inodorous alcohol and allowed to macerate
for a month in a warm place. If pod musk is
used, it must be very finely cut. A few grains
of sal. tartar, not to exceed twenty, will aid in
bringing out the flavor, if added to the tincture.
It is somewhat difficult to give directions as
to the amount of this flavor to be used, owing
to the great diversity of taste in this regard.
About one teaspoonful of extract to a pound of
sugar will generally suffice. Too strong a flavor
will prove disagreeable to many. Imitation musk
lozenges are flavored with a compound of aro-
matic oils, principally cinnamon, clove, and rose.
Orange. — Prepare as directed for lemon, sub-
stituting the oil or extract of orange.
Peppermint. — To each pound of lozenge
mass add from fifteen to twenty-five drops of
pure oil of peppermint. By using the English oil,
the flavor will be the same as that of the im^
ported lozenges.
The American oil is, however, if pure, much
to be preferred, and is exported in large quanti-
ties to be used by English confectioners in pre-
no HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
ference to the oil produced at home. Peppermint
lozenges are seldom, if ever, colored, and care
should be taken to use very white gum in their
preparation. Some manufacturers add a few drops
of blue color to the mass to neutralize any yel-
lowish tinge in the materials, and give the
lozenges a fine white color.
Pineapple. — The aroma of this delicious fruit
is illy adapted for use as a lozenge flavor, from
the fact that in its natural state it is not suffi-
ciently intense, and is destroyed by any attempt
at concentration.
The artificial flavor is therefore the only one
which can be employed, but is insipid unless a
little acid is also used. The same remarks will
apply to banana and other artificial flavorings.
Quince. — These may be prepared from the
jelly of the fruit in the same manner as directed
for currant.
Raspberry. — Prepare from the pulp of the
fruit the same as currant. Before niixing with
the sugar, pass through a fine hair sieve to re-
move the seeds.
VANILLA. Ill
Rose.— -To each pound of sugar add fifteen
drjps of pure oil of rose dissolved in a little
strong alcohol. Particular care should be ob-
served to use only a pure and fine flavored oil,
as that which has been adulterated will give to
the lozenges a musty and unpleasant taste. If a
strong extract, prepared from the French flower
pomade of this odor can be obtained, it will
give a much finer flavor than that of even the
purest oil. Rose lozenges are usually colored a
bright red.
Sassafras. — To each pound of sugar add
twenty to forty drops of fine oil of sassafras.
Lozenges of this flavor are seldom colored.
Sarsaparilla. — To each pound of sugar add
one half ounce of powdered extract of liquorice,
or the same quantity of roll liquorice dissolved
in a little water. Mix thoroughly, and flavor with
a mixture of equal parts of oils of wintergreen
and sassafras.
Vanilla. — To each pound of sugar add a full
teaspoonful of good extract of vanilla. This
112 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
flavor, though much admired in other confections,
is seldom used in lozenges, the popular taste re-
quiring something of a more pungent character.
Wintergreen. — To one pound of sugar add
twenty to forty drops of pure oil of wintergreen.
No color is required.
In all the preceding receipts, the use of gum
arable only as a coherent material has been
directed. For such purposes it possesses many
qualities, all of which are not combined in any
other similar substance. It is, therefore, employed
by the best manufacturing confectioners in the
production of first-class goods.
For the cheaper grades, other gums of less
cost are sometimes substituted. For home use, a
delicious lozenge may be made, of any of the
preceding flavors, by substituting the beaten
whites of eggs in place of the gum mucilage,
and otherwise following the directions given.
Such lozenges, while fresh, have a fine taste, but
do not retain their good qualities with age.
Crystal Lozenges. — By employing sugar in
a finely granulated condition, and otherwise fol-
DIADEM LOZENGES. 113
lowing the directions given, a peculiar texture is
obtained in the finished lozenge, which is ren-
dered crystalline, and almost transparent, in ap-
pearance. For such use, the pulverized sugar
sold by grocers for culinary purposes, may be
used, the finer particles being removed by sift-
ing.
Cream Lozenges. — By the addition of a
little inodorous glycerine, the lozenges retain
their moisture for a long time, hardening only
sufficiently to bear moderate handling. They re-
semble in taste a freshly cut lozenge of the
ordinary kind, and easily melt in the mouth.
A very small proportion of glycerine, usually
about two ounces to a pound of sugar, will pro-
duce this effect. A thin mucilage should also be
used. Only a good quality of glycerine should
be employed for this purpose, as the cheap
grades have an extremely nauseous taste.
A similar effect may be produced by the use
of a thick syrup of glucose or starch sugar.
Diadem Lozenges. — These are made by
mixing enough of the mucilage with the sugar to
produce a thick, pasty mass instead of a dough.
114 I/OJV TO MAKE CANDY.
This mass is then forced through orifices in a
metal plate, which is placed in the bottom of a
square box having a closely fitting piece of wood
which is pressed down upon the mass. As por-
tions of the mass of sufficient thickness project,
they are scraped off with a thin blade and de-
posited on sheets of paper to dry. They are
usually more strongly flavored, and as they con-
tain more gum than the ordinary lozenge, are, of
course, harder, and smoother to the taste.
Medicated Lozenges.
Coug^h Lozenges. — Under the various terms
of Troches, Pastiles, Pulmonic Wafers, etc., etc.,
thousands of packets of medicated compounds, in
the form of lozenges, are consumed. Each man-
ufacturer has, of course, his own formula, and
the superiority of his own especial product is
loudly vaunted in newspaper advertisements and
circulars. In reality, there is very little diiference
in the composition of these numerously styled arti-
cles, and by whatever name they may be called,
they are practically the same in their effects.
Intended chiefly for the alleviation of func-
COUGH LOZENGES, 115
tional derangements of the throat and vocal
organs, they necessarily contain in combination sub-
stances possessing demulcent, sedative, tonic, and
often slightly astringent properties. As the pro-
portions of any one of these substances vary in
the recipe of any particular manufacturer, so
may his article be especially adapted to the alle-
viation of the particular form of disorder under
which some purchaser may be laboring. It is not
wonderful, therefore, if his faith has been based
upon some such accidental adaptability of the
remedy to the disease, that the confidence of the
purchaser should be very strong regarding the
superior merits of the articles prepared by some
particular manufacturer, and ready to manifest
itself in the form of a "certificate."
If the manufacturer can only succeed in se-
curing in some such manner the signature of a
" well-known clergyman," the effect of his repre-
sentations will be proportionately increased. The
continued and frequent use of such remedies,
however pleasant their immediate effect may be
upon the organs, the disorders of which they are
intended to relieve, is apt to produce serious dis-
turbance of the functions of the digestive organs.
ii6 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
The following formula is a good general rep-
resentative of that employed in the manufacture
of those articles of this description which have
the greatest reputation and most extended sale.
In many, the extract of conium is omitted, a
wise precaution, if the troches are sold to be
used ad libitum as an article of confectionery.
As a medicinal ingredient, however, it possesses
valuable properties, and the cough lozenges, or
troches containing it, when judiciously used, are
much more efficacious in allaying irritation of the
throat than are those from which it has been
omitted.
When introduced, specific directions regarding
the number of troches to be taken as a dose
should accompany each packet, otherwise their too
free use might be productive of disagreeable
results.
Bronchial Troches.—
Extract of Liquorice, One pound.
Sugar, Two pounds.
Gum Arabic, Four ounces.
, Powdered Cubebs, Four ounces.
Extract of Conium, One ounce.
BRONCHIAL TROCHES. nj
In addition to these ingredients, some makers
add various aromatics, as cloves, cinnamon, etc.
Powdered pellitory, in small quantities, is some-
times added, but such variations from the above
formula are not popular, the public taste having
in a manner been educated to a certain standard
of flavor, any great departure from which is apt
to be regarded with suspicion.
The mode of manipulation may be varied in
combining the above ingredients according to the
quantity to be operated upon. When small quan-
tities only are employed, it will be found more
convenient to use the extract of liquorice and
gum arable in a powdered state.
They should be uniformly mixed with the
sugar and cubebs, by being passed through a
sieve, and the extract of conium having been
reduced with water to the consistence of cream,
may then be introduced, and the mass worked
into the form of a dough as before described.
Gum arable and extract of liquorice are, how-
ever, much more expensive in a powdered state,
and economy will, therefore, dictate a mode of
procedure involving a little more trouble, but
producing better results, as there will be no
ii8 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
chance for the adulteration of these articles as is
too often the case with them when purchased
in a powdered state.
This method is simply to dissolve the ex-
tract of liquorice and gum arabic separately, with
as little water as will suffice to effect their com-
plete solution. When dissolved, they may be
mixed and evaporated over a water bath until
the compound reaches such a degree of consis-
tence that the introduction of the sugar, cubebs,
and extract of conium will bring the mass into
a suitable condition for rolling. When the ex-
tract of conium is used, the thickness of the
rolled mass and the size of the cutter should be
so graduated that each lozenge may contain a
definite and uniform amount thereof.
Horehound Lozenges. — Boil one pound of
dried horehound leaves, with one quart of water,
for an hour, replacing the amount of water lost
by evaporation. Strain the decoction, expressing
the leaves strongly in a press, or in a strong cloth
bag by twisting. Add thereto one ounce of gum
arabic and allow it to dissolve. Next evaporate
the liquid to four or five fluid ounces and in-
LIQUORICE LOZENGES. 119
corporate with it sufficient sugar to form a mass
of the usual consistence for forming into loz-
enges.
Boneset Lozenges. — Prepare in the same
manner as horehound, substituting the dried leaves
of the boneset.
Liquorice Lozenges. — Dissolve four ounces
of best extract of liquorice in sufficient water to
soften the entire mass Add to this enough of
the powdered sugar to make a mass suitable for
rolling. If only a small quantity of liquorice is
desired, the mass may be made to nearly the
required consistence with mucilage and the dis-
solved liquorice added in quantities to suit.
When the directions first given are followed, no
gum is needed, the extract of liquorice possess-
ing sufficient adhesiveness to form a hard lozenge.
Another form of liquorice lozenge may be pre-
pared by mixing the powdered liquorice root
with the sugar in the proportion of one part of
the former to three of the latter, and forming
the mixture into a mass with gum mucilage.
Various forms of cough lozenges are prepared
1 20 HOW TO MAKE CAND V.
by incorporating different medicinal substances
with the extract of liquorice and sugar, but it is
hardly necessary to give formulas, each manufac-
turer having his own particular proportions, as
determined by his own experience or the tastes
of his customers. Oil of anise is the usual fla-
voring ingredient. Coltsfoot Rock and Bath Pipe
are simply a combination of the ingredients above
named, a larger proportion of gum being used to
give hardness to the finished article. The mass,
instead of being cut in lozenges, is forced
through cylindrical moulds, and is thus formed into
sticks, which may be either plain or corrugated.
Chlorate of Potash Troches.—
Chlorate of Potash in fine powder,
Seven and a half ounces.
Lozenge Sugar, Twenty-five ounces.
Gum Arabic in powder, One ounce.
Mix the powders and form into a paste in
the usual manner with mucilage. The thickness
of the sheet and- size of cutter should be so ad-
justed that from the above quantity of materials,
from 720 to 750 lozenges may be cut. Flavor
with any essential oil according to taste.
FRUIT SYRUPS.
Soda Water and Fruit Syrups.
The preparation of this class of syrups is so
very simple that it would hardly seem possible
that there should be much demand for the pro-
ducts of those who make the manufacture of
these goods a specialty. Yet such is the lack of
practical knowledge respecting their preparation,
that many establishments do an extensive business
in this line, and make large profits which might
easily be saved to the consumer. The greatest
demand for these syrups comes from the venders
of soda water, especially from those whose sales
are small, and to whom the saving of a manufac-
turer's profit would be quite an object, amounting
to no small percentage of the amount of their
sales during the season.
t)ruggists, with few exceptions, prepare their
own syrups, and in consequence we find the
soda water sold in their establishments, as a rule,
greatly superior in quality to that obtained else-
where. The profit to be made by the substitu-
tion of syrups of inferior quality is so small th^t
it should hardly be a temptation to any dealer,
122 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
and the reputation for selling fine soda water
will be more than likely to bring him a greater
profit by reason of increased custom. If the
dealer's sales are large enough to warrant his
giving any attention at all to this branch of his
business, he will find it greatly to his interest to
take the preparation of his syrups into his own
hands.
In addition to the use of fruit syrups with
soda water, they are employed in some families
quite extensively in the preparation of pleasant
cooling drinks, by the addition of ice-water, or
as a pleasant flavoring ingredient in punches or
other combinations of like character.
Simple Syrup. — This is the base of most
syrups used. Its very name indicates the ease
with which it may be prepared. It is " simply "
a solution of refined sugar in water. Regarding
the quantity of sugar to be used custom varies
somewhat. If the syrup be too thin, more must
be used to render the soda water sufficiently
sweet, and this of course dilutes the sparkling
beverage and renders it less brisk to the taste.
The proportions in general use by the best drug-
t
FRUIT SYRUPS. 123
gists do not vary greatly from twelve pounds of
sugar to one gallon of pure water, and if these
quantities are employed the result cannot fail to
prove satisfactory. To prepare simple syrup,
therefore, take twelve pounds of the best crushed
sugar, place it with one gallon of water in a
convenient vessel over a fire and heat to the
boiling point, skimming off the impurities, should
any rise to the surface. When cool, pour into
jugs or clean kegs, according to the quantity, and
keep in a cool place. No clarification is neces-
sary.
Some directions call for the use of the white
of an egg to clear the syrup, but no advantage
is to be gained by subjecting it to such treat-
ment if the ordinary crushed sugar is used. The
syrup thus made should be entirely transpa-
rent and free from color.
Having our simple syrup ready, we will note
the special treatment which each flavor demands.
In some cases, especially when the juices of
fruits are employed, the syrup is not first prepared
and then flavored, but these processes go hand-
in-hand. In such instances, specific instructions
will be given as required.
124 ^^^ ^^ MAKE CANDY.
Lemon Syrup. — Prepare an extract of lemon
by dissolving one ounce of pure and fresh oil of
lemon in one pint of inodorous alcohol. Dissolve
one ounce of citric acid in three ounces of pure
water, and add to the solution one ounce of al-
cohol. These two solutions are to be kept on
hand for use as wanted, the quantity of each to
be prepared at one time to be determined
by the wants of the consumer. If perfectly
fresh oil of lemon is obtained, and pure alco-
hol is used, the extract will retain its freshness
throughout the season.
The acid solution is apt to spoil if kept too
long, and should therefore be made only in such
quantities as will necessitate frequent renewal.
To flavor the syrup, it is only necessary to
add to a portion of the simple syrup sufficient
of both the extract and acid solution to suit the
taste. No special directions in this regard are
necessary, as tastes vary greatly. Generally, a
teaspoonful of the extract, and twice that quan-
tity of the acid solution will be sufficient for a
pint of syrup. The addition of the syrup will
cause the syrup to assume a slightly milky ap-
pearance, a matter of little consequence, especially
FRUIT SYRUPS. 125
when the syrup is kept out of sight of the cus-
tomer in the various patent draught machines now
in general use. Too much care cannot be exer-
cised in selecting a fine quality of oil of lemon
for making the extract, as on this depends the
excellence of the syrup.
If a pure and fine quality of oil of lemon
cannot be obtained, it will be best to use the
lemon extract of some reliable maker. If a lit-
tle additional trouble can be willingly assumed
for the sake of better results, the following pro-
cess will give a syrup of delicious taste, and
really better than can be obtained in any other
way.
Wash a dozen lemons, slice them thinly, and
cover with ten pounds of powdered sugar; cover
the vessel in which they are placed, and allow
them to remain for several hours, or until the
sugar has absorbed the juice of the lemons. Next,
add just enough water to make a thick syrup, and
heat gently until the sugar is dissolved. Under
no circumstances must the syrup be allowed to
boil, and the less heat that can be used to effect
the complete solution of the sugar the better will
be the syrup.
126 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
Orange. — The syrup of this fruit, though very
fine, is not as popular with the public as that of
the lemon. It may be prepared in precisely the
same manner from the extract or the fruit.
Vanilla. — To a pint of syrup add three tea-
spoonfuls of fine vanilla extract. The quality of
the syrup will of course depend upon that of the
extract used. The extract made by the first pro-
cess described in the paragraph relating to this
flavor under the head of flavoring extracts will
always give satisfaction. Dealers in soda water
will find it more to their advantage to manufac-
ture their own extracts according to the directions
heretofore given, of whatever quality their trade
demands, than to purchase the bottled extracts
of any manufacturer.
Ginger. — To a pint of syrup add from one
to two teaspoonfals of the extract of Jamaica
ginger, made as before directed. A few drops of
tincture of curcuma will give a bright yellow ap-
pearance, which is generally considered to be in-
dicative of greater strength of flavor. Under the
name of ginger ale, a combination of ginger and
FRUIT SYRUPS. 127
lemon flavors in soda water has become quite
popular. A " gi'i^ger ale syrup " may easily be
prepared by adding to the ginger syrup, strongly
flavored, just enough of lemon extract to modify
the taste, say a teaspoonful of extract to a pint of
syrup. A little of the acid solution should like-
wise be added, but not as much as is used in
the syrup when flavored with lemon alone. The
bottled ginger ale is simply soda water sweetened
and flavored with this syrup. Ginger syrup is
sometimes made by boiling the bruised root
in water until the latter has acquired a strong
taste ; it is then strained and sugar added to
bring it to a syrupy consistence.
The " extract of ginger ale," sold to be used
as a flavoring for this syrup, seems to be simply
a strong decoction of ginger colored with a little
burnt sugar. Syrup of much better quality can
be made by using the regular ginger and lemon
extract.
Raspberry. — This fine syrup, to be in per-
fection, should be prepared directly from the
fruit. A very fair imitation syrup may be pro-
duced, and it is this which constitutes the bulk
128 HOW TO MAKE CAND V.
of that sold by manufactQrers, but when sub-
jected to the test of comparison with the true
syrup of the fruit, the great superiority of the
latter is at once apparent. The directions usually
given for the preparation of this syrup involve
the expression of the juice and the use of heat
in order to coagulate the vegetable albumen and
render the syrup less liable to ferment.
The following process which has been used
by the writer for many years, while saving much
trouble and expense, yields a syrup surpassing
in delicacy of flavor that prepared by any other
method, while its keeping qualities are simply
perfect. Take of ripe raspberries, either black
or red, any convenient quantity. Place them in
a wide-mouthed earthen vessel, an ordinary
stone pot will answer, and bruise by stirring
with a flat wooden paddle. The berries need
not be completely mashed, only the surface
needs breaking, and this is accomplished by a
little stirring and bruising with the paddle.
Next, mix pure acetic acid and water in the
proportion of one part of acid to ten of water,
and pour over the berries, using for this purpose
just enough to slightly cover them and no
FRUIT SYRUPS.
129
more. Allow the berries to stand thus covered
by the acid for ten or twelve hours.
Prepare a stoutly sewed bag of canton flannel
or thick cotton cloth in a conical shape, and
fasten the large end firmly around a hoop, Sus-
pend this bag by wires or stout strings from the
ceiling, and fill with the contents of the vessel.
The acetified juice will soon commence to run
away in a beautifully transparent and finely col-
ored stream, and should be received in a clean
vessel placed underneath. Allow the juice to
drain as long as any will run, and when the
liquid no longer drops from the bag, remove
that which has filtered through and add twelve
pounds of refined sugar to each gallon. Dissolve
by a very gentle heat, not to exceed 125° F;,
and pour the finished syrup into large bottles or
jugs. These may be corked and sealed, and the
syrup will keep without showing any signs of fer-
mentation throughout the entire year. Of course
a fine quality of acetic acid must be used. That
obtained from the rectification of pyroligneous acid
sometimes contains a trace of creosote, which, of
course, renders it unfit to be used for this pur-
pose.
6*
I30
HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
The acid should be entirely free from any-
extraneous odor, having only its natural smell,
which is not unpleasant, and harmonizes finely
with the bouquet of the fruit. The contents of
the bag should not be expressed, but any waste
of the fruit may be prevented by stirring up the
residue with a fresh portion of acid and allowing
it to drain, when it may be added to a fresh
portion of berries. If expressed, minute portions
of the fermentable parts of the berries will pass
through, and not only tend to injure the fine
transparency of the syrup, but will be apt to
cause it to spoil by fermentation.
If any dealer will take the pains to experi-
ment on a small quantity of berries, following
the directions given, we are confident he will
be unwilling thereafter to prepare this syrup in
any other way. The acid is used in just the
right proportion to give only a pleasant tart
taste, which renders the syrup much more agree-
able than when made from the juice of the
berries without such addition. The syrup thus
prepared is very rich in flavor and of a very
deep color. If desired, it may be reduced at
the time of using with a little plain syrup.
FRUIT SYRUPS.
131
The imitation syrup of raspberries is prepared by
flavoring simple syrup with an extract com-
pounded as below. It should be colored a
bright red with cochineal or aniline.
Bruised Orris Root.
3 ounces,
Acetic Acid,
2 «
Acetic Ether,
I ounce,
Alcohol,
I pint.
Mix and allow to stand a few days, then filter.
Strawberry. — The same process as that just
described is to be followed in every respect, sub-
stituting fully ripe strawberries in place of the
raspberries.
The strawberry being somewhat firmer in tex-
ture, needs a little more bruising, and may
therefore be broken with the paddle in such a
manner that the juices may escape, yet without
beating the fruit to a pulp. A good way in
preparing small quantities is to take each berry
between the thumb and finger, and with a little
pressure crush the berry just enough to allow
the juice to flow freely. The results obtained by
treating the strawberry in this manner, still
132 ffOW TO MAKE CANDY.
better exhibit the superiority of this process over
the one usually employed.
The flavor of the strawberry, as all know, is
exceedingly delicate and must be very carefully
treated in order that its fine qualities may remain
unimpaired. If expressed, the juice must be
boiled, in order to coagulate and remove the
fermentable portions, and by such treatment the
delicate flavor is entirely ruined. When obtained
by the use of acetic acid, the aroma is entirely
preserved, the degree of heat employed to dis-
solve the sugar not being sufficient to injure
the flavor of the fruit in the least. The color
of the syrup is superb, and needs no addition of
any foreign coloring material to improve it. The
finished syrup, if kept in a cool place, will re-
main unchanged in its qualities for an entire
year, or longer. Advantage may consequently be
taken of the very low rates which sometimes
prevail when the market has temporarily become
glutted, and enough syrup prepared to last the
entire season.
The addition of acetic acid to the juice after
expression has been before recommended, but the
method of extracting the juice by means of the
FRUIT SYRUPS. 133
acid without expression is, so far as known, original
with the writer, and from many years' experience
he can testify to its excellence. The testimony
of the few to whom the process has been com-
municated has likewise been uniformly in its
favor. Aside from the excellent quality of the
syrup thus obtained, the saving in the trouble-
some labor of expression employed in the old
methods,, is very great and doubly welcome, since
it comes at so busy a season of the year.
An imitation syrup of strawberry may be
made by using as a flavor the artificial extract
prepared by the manufacturing chemists ; but it
in no manner resembles the real flavor of this
berry, having only a peculiar fruity odor, more
general than specific in character. In this con-
nection, it may be well to allude to the sub-
stances purporting to be " pure fruit juices." In
many cases they are mere imitations; but those
sold by reliable houses are really obtained from
the fruit. They are prepared, however, by a
species of fermentation which is as ruinous to
the fine flavor of the fruit as the strong heat
employed in other processes.
Their use, whether they are pure or fictitious
134 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
in character, cannot be recommended to those
who desire to obtain a reputation for fine soda
water.
Pineapple. — The preparation of a syrup di-
rectly from this fruit is somewhat difficult un-
less on the large scale, when proper utensils may
be provided to save labor. The process described
for raspberry cannot well be employed, owing to
the peculiar texture of the fruit. The juice must
therefore be obtained by expression, and to this
end the fruit must first be reduced to a pulp by
means of a coarse revolving grater, or in the
small way by pounding in a mortar. The pulp
is then subjected to great pressure in a strong
tincture press, and from the juice thus obtained
the syrup is prepared. The juice, like that of
all fruits, contains much fermentable matter, which
can only be removed by heating it to the boil-
ing point; but in so doing the fine flavor is, of
course, greatly impaired. During the season while
pineapples are plenty, the better way is to pre-
pare the syrup in small quantities as wanted,
heating the juice to a degree sufficient to dissolve
the sugar only. The syrup is prepared by adding
FRUIT SYRUPS. 135
to the expressed juice sugar in the proportion of
twelve pounds to the gallon. A little of the so-
lution of citric acid described in the paragraph
on lemon syrup is sometimes added to give
sharpness to the taste. The addition of a little
acetic acid aids in preventing fermentation, but
the taste of this acid does not, as in the cases
of raspberry and strawberry, harmonize well
with the natural flavor of the fruit. The artificial
extract of pineapple more nearly resembles the
natural flavor than is the case with any other of
these peculiar essences, banana alone excepted,
yet it falls far short of giving the satisfaction to
be obtained by the use of the juice of the
fruit.
Coffee. — Make a very strong infusion of pure
Java coffee in the usual manner, and add twelve
pounds of sugar to each gallon thereof. By
grinding the coffee very fine and percolating with
boiling hot water, a much finer product is ob-
tained. Only pure coffee should be used, at
least two pounds being required for each gallon
of the infusion.
Chocolate. — Place a half-pound cake of plain
136 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
chocolate of good quality in a saucepan and set
the latter into a kettle of boiling water. The
chocolate will soon melt, when one quart of
boiling water should gradually be added, and
afterward two and a half pounds of sugar.
Stir until the latter is dissolved, and strain
through a hair sieve. Add two teaspoonfuls of
good vanilla extract and a few drops of extract
of bitter almond. The addition of the almond is,
however, a matter of taste, many persons con-
sidering it a great improvement, while others are
better suited with the natural flavor of the
chocolate with a little vanilla flavor only.
Wild Cherry. — Take of fresh ripe wild
cherries one quart. Bruise in a mortar with a
wooden pestle, that the pulp of the fruit may be
crushed without breaking the stones. About a
tablespoonful of these should, however, be broken
with an iron pestle, the object being to obtain
only a certain amount of the bitter flavor of the
meats. If all were broken this flavor would be
too strong. Add one half-pint of pure inodorous
alcohol and one half-pint of water, and macerate
for a week ; express and filter. To one quart of
FRUIT SYRUPS. 137
simple syrup add four to six ounces of the extract
of the fruit prepared as above. The ordinary syrup
of wild cherry is made by flavoring simple syrup
with bitter almond extract and coloring. If the
fresh fruit cannot be obtained, the dried cherries
may be used without being bruised, just enough
of the spirit being added to cover them. They
must be allowed to macerate for at least ten
days and then expressed with considerable force
in a strong tincture press.
Wintergreen. — This flavor is rarely used
alone, but in combination with other flavors
serves to give an agreeable taste to the so-called
sarsaparilla syrup. If a syrup of this flavor is
required, it may be made by adding to simple
syrup enough of the essence of wintergreen to
give a pleasant taste. This syrup is generally
preferred of a bright red color.
Cream Syrup. — If real cream can readily
be procured, it forms a very fine addition to
many syrups. It should be mixed with its own
bulk of fresh milk, and sweetened by the addi-
tion of one pound of pulverized sugar to each
138 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY,
quart of the mixed cream and milk. It is not
always practicable, however, to obtain a regular
supply, and the real cream is therefore seldom
used.
The following directions will be found to
furnish an acceptable substitute. Beat the whites
of two eggs and the yolk of one thoroughly with
one pound of pulverized sugar. Add gradually
one pint of fresh rich milk and stir until the
sugar is dissolved; strain through a fine sieve.
The sugar is added to the cream more to pre-
vent it from turning sour than for its sweetening
property, as this quality is furnished by the par-
ticular syrup with which the cream is used.
Many dealers are in the habit of using
nothing but rich milk without any addition, in
place of a cream syrup. If the syrups with
which it is used are sufficiently heavy, the re-
sult is perhaps as satisfactory as when the more
elaborately prepared mixture is substituted.
Sarsaparilla. — It is a popular delusion that
this syrup has valuable medicinal properties in
addition to its agreeable flavor. The use of the
substance from which it takes its name 'has, how-
FRUIT SYRUPS. 139
ever, long since been dispensed with, and what-
ever medicinal properties might have resided in
a syrup prepared therefrom, are now in vain to
be looked for in the simple ai^omatic syrup which
bears the name of sarsaparilla, but contains none
of it.
Nor is the omission to be deprecated.
Enough medicine is swallowed by the average in-
dividual in other ways, without the necessity of
imbibing it in his daily drink. The popularity
of this syrup has, however, been maintained by
its fine aromatic flavor, a flavor at first added
to disguise the unpleasant taste of the medicinal
tincture which was added to the syrup. As now
used, sarsaparilla syrup may be prepared as fol-
lows: To one pint of alcohol add one ounce
each of oils of sassafras and wintergreen. This
forms the flavoring extract which may be added
to simple syrup according to taste. The syrup is
usually preferred of a dark brown color to keep
up the sarsaparilla delusion.
A little burnt sugar or solution of extract of
liquorice will give the requisite tint. When large
quantities of this syrup are used, it is the prac-
tice of most dealers to prepare it from a good
I40 HOW TO MAKE CANDY,
quality of brown sugar. When thus made, the
color will generally be sufficiently dark without
the addition of any coloring material. Syrup
thus prepared is somewhat cheaper and equally
as good.
Catawba. — Prepare a very heavy simple
syrup, using sixteen pounds of sugar to a gallon
of water. Add to a portion of this an equal
bulk of fine catawba wine having a rich bouquet.
Hock, claret, and -other wine syrups are prepared
in a similar manner. Some dealers prefer to keep
the simple syrup on draught, and after drawing
a sufficient quantity in the glass to properly
sweeten the contents, add the wine just previous
to filling with soda water.
Milk Punch. — To one pint of heavy syrup add
^^ half pint each of brandy and Jamaica rum.
Flavor with two teaspoonfuls of an extract pre-
pared by macerating two ounces of ground nut-
megs in eight ounces of alcohol. The syrup is
first to be poured into the glass in the proper
quantity, and ordinary cream syrup added before
drawing the soda water.
FRUIT SYRUPS. 141
Orgeat. — The true syrup of this flavor is
prepared from the meats of the sweet and bitter
almond. To make it, take three ounces of the
sweet and one ounce of the bitter ahnond meats,
deprive them of their skins by immersing them
for a moment in boiling water and rubbing off
the skin, which will easily come away ; pound
to a fine paste in a clean iron mortar, and
gradually add one pint of simple syrup. Strain
through a fine sieve.
This process gives a syrup of a very delicate
flavor, but dealers hardly care to undertake the
trouble involved in its preparation.
An excellent imitation is made by flavoring
the cream syrup already described, made with
eggs and milk, with a few drops of extract of
bitter almond.
Champagne. — To one quart of good Rhine
wine, with a rich bouquet, add two ounces of
old Otard brandy, one tablespoonful of good
sherry, and three pounds of pulverized sugar. Dis-
solve the latter by stirring without the application
of heat. This syrup should be kept very cold,
and used with soda water from a highly charged
142 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
fount. It forms a much better substitute for
genuine champagne than any of the numerous
doctored cider imitations.
Sherry Cobbler. — To one pint of good
sherry add an equal measure of heavy simple
syrup and one lemon cut in very thin slices.
Allow the syrup to stand a few hours, strain
through a sieve, and bottle for use.
Fancy Syrups. — Under the names of Am-
brosia, Nectar, etc., many variously flavored com-
binations are from time to time set forth by the
dealer to give variety to his list of syrups, and
attract custom by their novelty. As no special
uniformity need be observed in this regard, a
few formulas are given, to any of which the
dealer using may assign that name which his
fancy may suggest.
I. — Take of simple syrup one pint, syrup of
wild cherry and good port wine, of each four
ounces. The flavor of this is exquisite when
made from fine materials.
II. — Raspberry syrup one pint, vanilla syrup
one pint, Sauterne wine one half pint.
FRUIT SYRUPS. 143
III. — Vanilla syrup one quart, pineapple syrup
one half pint, raspberry syrup one half pint.
IV. — Heavy simple syrup one pint, lemon syrup
one half pint, brandy one half pint, extract of nut-
meg ten drops.
V. — To one quart of good Rhine wine add
one lemon and one orange, each thinly sliced,
one half of a small pineapple, sliced, and three
pounds of fine sugar. Allow them to stand for a
few hours, heat gently over a water bath, stirring
until the sugar is dissolved, and strain for use.
Sugar-House Syrups.— The genuine "old-
fashioned " sugar-house syrup is obtained in the
process of refining sugar, and is simply the mo-
lasses which drains away from the sugar after it
has been brought to the crystalline form. Its
flavor varies with the different kinds of raw
sugar which are treated, and it is of various
qualities according to the degree to which the
refining process is carried. It is used quite
freely by families, especially in the winter months,
as an agreeable addition to many kinds of food.
144 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
Owing to the high price at which the genuine
article is held, many cheaper substitutes are in
the market.
Most of these are prepared from starch or
artificial sugar, and while they are not, if prop-
erly made, deleterious to the health of the con-
sumer, they do not possess the fine flavor of the
true syrup. They are generally quite thick and
heavy, of a dark color, and have a peculiar
"stickiness" resembling that of a thick mucilage.
There is no necessity for the use of these cheap
substitutes on the score of economy. The fol-
lowing receipt will furnish a syrup fully equalling
the best "golden drips," and at a less price than
is usually asked for the common grades. Take
from six to eight pounds of half-refined sugar of
the grade denominated " C " by grocers ; place
in a kettle over a brisk fire, add two quarts of
water and bring to a boil. Continue the boiling
for a few minutes, skimming off any impurities
which may rise to the surface, allow the syrup to
cool, and pour into bottles or jugs for use. The
proportions of sugar may of course be varied, as
the syrup is desired to be thick or thin. If too
thick, the sugar will crystallize on the sides of
FRUIT SYRUPS. 145
the vessel containing it. A very little gum arabic,
say one ounce to the above quantity, dissolved
in the water before it is added to the sugar,
will counteract this tendency, but it is hardly
worth while to take this trouble, as the crystal-
lized sugar can easily be dissolved in water and
added to a fresh portion of the syrup. Care
should be taken to procure the kind of sugar
described, as it alone possesses the peculiar taste
of the refiners' syrups.
Burnt Sugar. — This term is commonly applied
to sugar which has been heated to what is termed
the caramel degree. The sugar is not really
burned, but undergoes a chemical change in its
properties. It is used in this state for coloring
syrups and other preparations. To make it, take
ordinary brown sugar in any convenient quantity,
add a very little water, just enough to aid in
bringing the sugar to a uniform consistence, and
heat over a brisk fire until it increases greatly in
bulk, emits puffs of smoke, and turns to a dark
brown color. Remove from the fire, and add
gradually enough hot water to bring the mass to
a syrupy consistence.
7
146 HOW TO MAKE CANDY,
Miscellaneous.
Cachous. — This term, from a French word
signifying an aromatic berry, is given to the small
silver-coated pellets used for the purpose of com-
municating an agreeable odor to the breath.
They are much used by smokers to conceal the
disagreeable smell arising from the use of tobacco.
Those sent out by Hooper, of London, have at-
tained much celebrity, and large quantities are
annually sold in this country.
The secret of their composition was for a long
time carefully guarded, though many recipes have
from time to time appeared, purporting to be
genuine. The majority of these give results totally
different from what should be expected from the
genuine formula, while others, though better, merely
approximate, without actually producing the real
flavor. The following receipt, if pure materials are
einployed^ will be found to yield a flavor which
can with difliculty be distinguished from that of
the genuine Hooper cachous :
MISCELLANEOUS. . 147
111 English peppermint,
I ounce.
Rose,
I "
Cloves^
I «
True Ceylon cinnamon,
1^"
Tincture of musk,
4 ounces.
Alcohol.
12 «
The tincture of musk should first be prepared
by macerating one half ounce of best pod musk,
finely cut, in one pint of alcohol for at least two
weeks •. the longer it can stand, the better. The
same formula may be used with the substitution
of ordinary oils, but the product, while of a
pleasing character, and very useful for some pur-
poses, will be quite different from that to be ob-
tained by closely following the formula. For
cheap goods, the musk is entirely omitted, and
the quantity of oil of rose reduced. The body of
the cachou is composed of extract of liquorice
and sugar. The extract of good quality, free
from adulteration, is dissolved in sufficient water
to soften it and bring it to the state of a thick
paste. Powdered lozenge sugar is then added in
sufficient quantity to bring the mass to a pilular
consistence, and the flavor thoroughly worked in
in the proportion of from four to six drams to
148 /^OIV TO MAKE CANDY.
the pound, according to the strength desired. The
mass is afterward divided into small pills by the
ordinary pill machine, and these are coated with sil-
ver by rotating them while moist in a globe into
which a few sheets of silver leaf have been placed.
The introduction of a little pure glycerine
will cause the mass to retain its moisture and
consistence, thereby facilitating the process of
silver coating. Under the name of " Trix,"
"Jokes," etc., similar preparations have been in-
troduced They are made and flavored in the
same manner as cachous, but the silver coating
is omitted, such omission being no detriment to
the quality of the articles, as no real advantage
is gained by its use, it being employed for the
sake of appearance only.
The same flavor is used in the manufacture
of the cachou lozenge, previously described, which
form of confection is much to be preferred to the
metallic coated cachous. These lozenges are to
be prepared in the ordinary way, but should be
strongly flavored and cut very thin and small.
They command a much higher price than or-
dinary lozenges, and will therefore repay a little
extra trouble in this regard.
MISCELLANEOUS, 149
Frosting or Icing Sugar. — The finely pow-
dered sugar described in tlie section relating to
lozenges is much better adapted for use in the
preparation of frostings for cakes than the " pul-
verized " sugar usually kept by grocers for that
purpose. In ornamental sugar work for striping,
lettering, and executing various designs on fancy
and loaf cakes, its use is indispensable.
As its cost is but a trifle more than that of
the ordinary kind, a little inquiry on the part of
customers would cause it to be placed in the
regular stock of grocers, as the many uses to
which it may be profitably applied in culinary
operations would cause it to be an article in
steady demand were its qualities better known.
In the preparation of lemonade, punches, and
other drinks in which the speedy solution of the
saccharine constituent is desirable, its extreme
fineness secures the ready accomplishment of such
a result. For adding to strawberries and other
fruits which need sweetening before sending to
the table, it will be found more desirable than
the coarser grained variety.
To prepare frosting, add to the beaten whites
of eggs as much of the powdered sugar as will
I50 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
suffice to form a thick pasty mass, just soft
enough to spread evenly with a knife. Flavor
to suit the taste, and color if desired.
Various ornamental devices may be formed by
a combination of raised stripes of frosting on a
plain surface.
To execute this style of ornament, stiff letter-
paper should be rolled in the form of a cone
and fastened with a little mucilage.
The small end can then be cut away, leaving
a hole in that part of the cone of whatever size
may be desired. After the frosting has been ap-
plied to the surface of the cake and allowed to
harden, another portion, made in the same man-
ner, but not so thick, is to be placed in the
cone, through the small end of which it will
slowly pour in a fine line, which may be drawn
around the surface to be ornamented in any
shape desired. The proper consistence of the
paste can be ascertained by experiment.
It should be just thin enough to ooze slowly
through the orifice, yet firm enough to retain its
shape when laid on the surface of the cake.
Sugared Almonds.— The preparation of
MISCELLANEO US.
151
these popular sweets cannot conveniently be under-
taken on a small scale, yet a brief description of
the process employed may not be uninteresting.
Some confectioners still employ manual labor in
their production, but steam and machinery have
in most instances taken its place. When made
in small quantities, a copper pan of hemispheri-
cal shape is suspended by chains over a hot
charcoal fire in an open furnace. Into this* pan
the meats of almonds are placed and over them
poured a small quantity of very heavy syrup, so
heavy, in fact, that it must be kept hot in order
to prevent the sugar from crystallizing.
The pan being quickly shaken to and fro,
the almond meats are uniformly covered with the
syrup, from which the little water remaining is
quickly evaporated by the heat of the furnace,
leaving the sugar deposited upon the meats in a
thin coating. A fresh portion of syrup is then
added, the almonds again shaken, and in this
manner the process is continued until they are
covered with the proper thickness of sugar. On
the large scale, the pans are spherical in shape,
and set ■ at an angle, so that through an opening
in the top the heated syrup may be allowed to
152 NO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
drip in a small stream upon the almonds, which
are kept in constant agitation by the revolutions
of the pans. These are kept in motion by steam
power, and are heated by coils of pipe through
which steam is continually passing. The almonds
thus prepared are much more uniform in appear-
ance than those which are coated by hand. In
the same manner are prepared all forms of com-
fits and other confections which consist of a
nucleus of any kind covered with a hard sugar
coating. Sugar-coated pills are likewise so cov-
ered.
Sug"ared Dates. — These are easily prepared
by selecting large, well-shaped dates, and making
an incision in the side the entire length of the
date. The stone is removed, and a paste of
sugar prepared in the same manner as the inside
of chocolate drops, or some of the " creamed "
sugar of bonbons, inserted. The dates are after-
ward crystallized, or for home use may be
rolled in pulverized sugar. Other dried fruits
may be treated in a similar manner.
Fig Paste. — Take one pound of figs, chop
them coarsely, and boil with a pint of water until
MISCELLANEOUS. 153
reduced to a soft pulp; strain through a fine sieve,
add three pounds of sugar, and evaporate over
boiling water until the paste becomes quite stiff.
Place the warm paste in a mould, made from an
ordinary wooden box, by removing the nails with
which the sides are fastened, and holding them in
place by a stout string, instead. When the paste
is cooled, by removing the string, the sides may
be taken away, leaving the paste in a square mass,
which may be divided in small pieces with a thin-
bladed knife. These pieces should be rolled in
fine sugar, after which they may be packed in
boxes without adhering to each other.
Second Method. — Take a heaping tablespoon-
ful of corn-starch, place in a saucepan, and add
first enough cold water to moisten the starch uni-
formly, and next a half pint of boiling water.
Heat over boiling water until it is thoroughly
cooked and becomes transparent. In fact, the
same steps should be taken as are employed by a
laundress in preparing a thick starch. Next add a
half pound of good brown or half-refined sugar,
and the strained pulp of four ounces of figs, pre-
pared as directed in the preceding paragraph, aftid
7*
154 HOW TO MAKE CANDY.
evaporate the paste over boiling water until it
becomes quite thick and adhesive in character.
Place in the mould as previously directed, and
treat in the same manner when cold. In this
general way, and from the same material as a base,
are prepared the many semi-transparent pastes which
are sold under various names. By adding grated
cocoanut, chopped raisins deprived of their seeds,
dried currants, etc., many styles may be produced.
The paste may be flavored and colored as desired.
The pulps of various preserved fruits, as currant,
raspberry, strawberry, etc., may likewise be added
before evaporation.
Large quantities of these pastes are prepared
by several firms in New York and Boston who
make a specialty of such products. By the aid
of steam they are enabled to make them of uni-
form quality, and sell them so cheaply as to ob-
tain a practical monopoly of their manufacture.
Though the process employed is simple enough,
its practical application is attended with many dif-
ficulties unless proper machinery and appliances
are used. It will hardly pay, therefore, to under-
take the preparation of such goods on a small
scale.
MISCELLANEO US.
155
Marsh Mallow Paste. — Dissolye one pound
of clean gum arabic in one quart of water ;
strain, add one pound of refined sugar, and
place over a fire, stirring continually until the
sugar is dissolved and the mixture has become of
the consistence of honey. Next, add gradually
the whites of eight eggs well beaten, stirring the
mixture all the time, until it loses its stickiness
and does not adhere to the fingers when touched.
The mass may now be poured out into a pan or
box, slightly dusted with starch, and when cool
divided into small squares or strips. In some
cases the mass is rolled in thin sheets while
warm, and strips cut off, which are dusted with
Si;arch and formed in rolls by folding. Just before
teyning out the paste it should be flavored. For
this purpose neroli or rose is usually employed.
Jujube Paste. — Take of gum arabic one
pound ; dissolve in a pint and a half of water
and add one pound of sugar. Evaporate to a very
thick consistence, and when cooled a little, but
while still warm enough to run, turn into shallow
tin pans which have previously been oiled. Any
flavor may be added before turning it out.
15^
HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
Candied Flag. — Take any convenient quan-
tity of freshly-gathered flag-root ; cut in small
pieces and boil for two hours in enough thick
simple syrup to keep the pieces covered. Pour
off the superfluous syrup, and allow the candied
flag to dry, or after draining a few minutes roll
the moist pieces in fine sugar, which will adhere
and form a coating. If the full strength of the
flag is not desired, it may be boiled in water
for a short time, and the water poured away be-
fore adding the syrup. Confectioners sometimes
coat the pieces after they have been boiled in
the syrup, with a covering of hard sugar, by the
same method used in preparing sugared almonds.
Candied Ginger. — Take any desired quantity
of green ginger-root ; remove the outer skin by
immersing it a few minutes in boiling water, after
which the skin may easily be rubbed off. Cut
in pieces, and boil in thick simple syrup until it
becomes quite soft and transparent in appearance.
In this state it may be used as a preserve, but
if wanted in the form of a dried confection, the
boiling should be continued over a slow fire until
the water has evaporated from the syrup, and it
MISCELLANEOUS. 157
shows a tendency to granulate. The superfluous
syrup may now be poured off, and the candied
ginger placed in a warm room to dry. If too
strong as thus prepared, the ginger may first be
boiled in water to remove a portion of its pun-
gency.
Vinegar Candy. — This is a form of candy
of an essentially domestic character. Several
receipts for its preparation have been published,
but the general mode of procedure in each case
varies but slightly. The following will perhaps
prove as satisfactory as any. To one quart of
good New Orleans molasses add one teacupful of
good cider vinegar. Boil until it reaches the point
where a little dropped into cold water becomes
very hard and brittle. Pour into shallow platters
until cool enough to be handled, and form into
a large roll which may be drawn down t<3 any
size and cut off in sticks.
Artificial Honey. — Many receipts have from
time to time appeared for the preparation of
syrupy compounds which are said to be as good
as the real honey produced by the industriou:^
158 HO W TO MAKE CAND V.
insect whose time and energies are exclusively
given to its manufacture.
The truth is, the " little busy bee " has the
only correct formula for making the genuine arti-
cle, and he has not yet published it. The many
imitations are very inferior to the real article, and
generally depend upon a portion of it for what
little honey flavor they may have. As a matter
of interest the following directions are given, and
the compound prepared therefrom will be found
to be a very superior substitute when it is not
desirable to use the genuine — but it is a substi-
tute only.
Take of refined sugar three pounds, water one
pint, gum arabic two ounces. Dissolve the gum
in the water, add the sugar and boil for about
twenty minutes, taking care that it does not
burn. Flavor with five drops of an extract pre-
pared as follows : Oil of rose, ten drops, oil of
peppermint, twenty drops, oil of spearmint, ten
drops, extract of jasmine, one half ounce, alcohol,
two ounces. The " honey " thus prepared may be
slightly tinged with a little tincture of saffron.
The syrup, without any flavoring, may be used to
mix with very strongly-flavored honey, and such
MISCELLANEOUS. i^^
mixture is. by some thought to be an improve-
ment, for the reason that it is milder to the
taste and less apt to disturb the stomach than
the genuine.
Lemon Sugar. — This preparation, though a
very unsatisfactory substitute for the real fruit in
making lemonade, is yet used in considerable
quantities during the summer months. There are
two styles in market, one composed of sugar and
tartaric acid mixed and flavored with lemon, the*
other being sugar with the lemon flavor alone,
the acid being contained in a small bottle which
is inserted in the sugar at the top of the box
in which it is packed. In one case enough of
the mixture is taken to make a pleasant tasting
solution ; in the other, the flavored sugar is first
dissolved in the water, and a few drops of the
acid solution added. The use of this acid solu-
tion, if made from tartaric or citric acid, is not
objectionable. In many instances, however, sul-
phuric acid is substituted, and, although its use
in the very dilute form required may not be
productive of any great injury, it is certainly not
as well -adapted for a drink- as the pure, vegeta-
i6o ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY,
ble acids. For home tise, there is no necessity
of uniting the ingredients in the form of a special
preparation. Lemonade may easily be prepared
by acidulating iced water with a little powdered
tartaric or citric acid, sweetening to the taste, and
flavoring with a few drops of lemon extract.
Made in this manner, the lemonade is a very
acceptable substitute for that made directly from
the fruit. The lemon sugar is, however, at the
best, a very inferior preparation, as the flavor of
Ihe lemon soon loses its delicacy and acquires
a disagreeable taste resembling that of turpen-
tine.
If a quantity of lemonade is needed, as at a
picnic or other gathering, don't buy any lemon
sugar to make it of, no matter how highly re-
commended. Procure from the druggist enough
pure citric or tartaric acid (the first-named is
better in flavor, the last cheaper in price), to
render the required quantity of water pleasantly
sour. Add sugar to sweeten, and lemon extract
to flavor, and the lemonade will be complete
without the risk of injury to those partaking of it.
Soda Powders. — These powd^s- are quite
MISCELLANEOUS, i6i
freely used in the summer months in the prepa^
ration of a pleasant effervescing drink, especially
in places remote from easy access to the modern
" soda fountain." They are made by folding in a
blue paper thirty grains of the bi-carbonate of
soda, the same as that used for baking purposes,
and in a white paper, twenty-five grains of pow-
dered tartaric acid. They may be used with any
of the fruit syrups prepared in accordance with
previous directions, using the precaution to dissolve
the acid in the tumbler containing the syrup, and
the soda in a little water only, in another glass.
In order to prepare a number of the powders, a
measure can easily be made by taking an ordi-
nary paper pill-box and putting into it the exact
quantity of soda for a single powder. It should
be slightly shaken until the surface is level, and
a line exactly even therewith drawn with a pencil
around the inside of the box.
The portion of the box above this line may
then be removed with a sharp knife, and the re-
mainder fastened to a short flat handle. By fill-
ing it with the powdered soda, and stroking off
the excess with a knife or spatula, a uniform
amount may be measured for each powder.
i62 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY.
Another box should in like manner be prepared
for the acid.
Ginger Beer Powders. — Pulverized sugar,
two drams, powdered ginger of good quality, five
grains, carbonate of soda, thirty grains. Mix and
fold in a blue paper. In a white paper fold
twenty-five grains of tartaric acid. Use the same
as soda powders. For forty-eight powders the
above proportions will require one pound of
sugar, one half ounce of ginger, and three ounces
of soda.
These may first be thoroughly mixed and
divided in separate powders by a measure con-
structed as for the soda powders. Two and a
half ounces of the powdered acid will make forty-
eight white papers.
Seidlitz Powders. — These are used as a
medicine rather than as a pleasant drink, though
they may be rendered more palatable by the use
of a small quantity of fruit syrup with the acid.
For twelve powders take one ounce of bi-carbon-
ate of soda and three ounces of powdered Ro-
ch«lle salts ; mix thoroughly, and divide into
MISCELLANEOUS, 163
powders by the use of a measure specially pre-
pared for this purpose. Fold in blue paper. For
the acid powders to accompany the above, divide
seven drams of powdered tartaric acid into twelve
equal parts. Fold in white papers.
Cheap Candies.— A great deal of candy has
of late been offered at extremely low rates at
retail, from twenty to twenty-five cents per pound
being the usual price. It is generally composed
of many varieties, principally, however, of those
which offer the largest opportunities for adultera-
tion.
Of the different kinds going to make up the
assortment, the bonbons, lozenges, and similar can-
dies are composed of a mixture of terra alba and
cheap sugar, the gum-drops are made from corn-
starch, and the stick candies from glucose or starch
sugar. This latter substance is not especially in-
jurious, but the candy made from it is not nearly
so fine in taste as that prepared from pure cane
sugar. Such candy may be detected by its lack
of sweetness, the yellowish color of that which is
sold for white, and its peculiar lack of tenacity
which causes the sticks to break very easily.
1 64 J^OW TO MAKE CANDY.
Candy prepared from pure . sugar, of the stick
and other varieties made by boiling, could per-
haps be afforded at twenty-five c^nts per pound,
but this would hardly cover the cost of the best
kinds of the mixed grades, which are made
from fine and pure materials.
The nuts and fruits used in the cheaper vari-
eties are also of poor quality, being mostly worm-
eaten, old, or damaged. It will be found much
the better way, if economy is an object, to pre-
pare the simpler varieties at home.
INDEX
PA6lt
Almond Bonbons. . , 85
. Almonds, Sugared 150
•4 Anise, Oil of It
" Candy 6j
Artificial Essences
, " Honey 157
>4 Banana Candy 6a
" Essence of. 37
Bath Pipe.. . 12a
y Bitter Almond, Extract of 16
A Blue Coloring 41
Boneset Lozenges 119
Bronchial Troches , 116
Butter Scotch 72
Burnt Sugar 145
Cachous 146
" Hooper's, How Made 147
" Flavor for 147
" Coating of with Silver 148
Calamus, Flavor of 15
Candied Flag 156
"^ Ginger 156
Candies from Boiled Sugar 53
"■■^" Forming of in Sticks 55
" " " Drops 56
" Striping of 57
" Working of 58
Capsicum 16
Cardamon, Extract of 17
Carrawa V, Oil of 14
Cheap Candies 163
Checkerberry 15
^ Chocolate Bonbons 85
" Caramels 73
" Cream Drops 87
" " " Covering of 90
Creamfor 88
" Cream Candy 65
- Chlorate of Potash Troches 120
A Cinnamon Candy 63
" Extract of 13
Oil of 12
Clove Candy , 63
i66 INDEX.
PAGB
Clove, Extract of 14
Cocoanut Candy 65
Colorings 39
Coloring of Bonbons 86
Coltsfoot Rock 120
Coriander 15
Corn Balls 74
" Cake 75
Cough Candy 76
'' Lozenges 114
" Pastiles 114
" Troches 114
Cream Almonds 93
" Bonbons 78
" Candy 64
*' for Chocolate Drops 88
" Lozenges 113
" Walnuts 93
" Crystallizing 84
Fig Paste 152
Flag, Candied 156
Flavors 7
Flavoring Extracts 10
Frosting Sugar 149
Fruit Essences, Artificial 33
" Syrups lai
Ginger 17
" Jamaica, Extract of 19
" Beer Powders 162
" Candied 156
Golden Drips 144
Green Coloring 41
Gum Drops 94
Pastes.
153
Honey, Artificial 156
Horehound Candy 75
" Lozenges 118
Icing Sugar 149
Jokes, for the Breath 148
Jujube Paste 155
Lemon Bonbons 84
" Candy 60
" Flavoring Extract of 21
, " Sugar 159
Lozenge r lavors 105
" Making 97
Lozenges, Anise 105
" Aromatic and Fruit 97
" Boneset. . .. ; 119
" Cachou *. 107
" 148
" Cayenne lod
" Chocolate 106
" Cinnamon ; 105
Cough 114
r-
INDEX, 167
PAGB
Lozenges,Cream 113
" Crystal iia
" Clove los
" Currant 106
" Diadem 113
" Ginger ^.. 107
" Horehound 118
*' Lemon. 108
" Liquorice i iq
Medicated 11^
*' Musk 108
" Orange 109
" Peppermint 109
" Pineapple i ro
" Quince no
*' Raspberry • no
" Rose Ill
" Sassafras. m
*' Sarsaparilla m
Vanilla nx
" Wintergreen 112
Marshmallow Paste 155
Molasses Candy 69
" " Old Fashioned 60
White 70
Neroli, Oil of 24
Orange Bonbons 84
" Extract of. 23
" Flower Flavor 23
Peanut Candy 73
Peppermint Candy 63
*' Drops , . 67
Pineapple Candy 62
" Essence of 37.
Piping 104
Pulmonic Wafers 114
Purple Coloring 41
Raspberry Candy 62
" Essence of 38
" _ " for Syrups 131
Red Coloring 39
Rose Candy 63
" Extract of 27
" Water 27
Sassafras Candy 63
Oil of 27
Seidlitz Powders 162
Soda Powders 160
Soda Water Syrups , 121
Starch Moulds 80
Strawberry Candy 62
" Essence of 38
Sugared Almonds 1 50
" Dates ' 15J
1 68 INDEX.
PAGE
Sugar, Action of Heat on , 48
" Boiling 49
" " Utensils for 52
" Brown 43
" Creaming of for Bonbons 79
" Crushed , 47
" Frosting
" Granulated 47
" Loaf 46
" Refined. 44
Syrup, Ambrosia 142
" Catawba 140
" Champagne 141
" Chocolate 135
" Claret 140
" Coffee 135
" Cream 137
" Fancy _. 142
" Ginger 126
" Ginger Ale 127
" Hock 140
" Lemon 124
" Milk Punch 140
" Nectar ." 142
" Orange 126
" Orgeat 141
" Pineapple 134
" Raspberry 127
" Sarsaparilla 138
" Sherry Cobbler 142
" Simple 122
" Sugar House 143
" Strawberry 131
" Vanilla -" 126
" Wild Cherry 136
" Wintergreen 137
Taffy 7*
" Everton 71
Trix for the Breath 148
Troches, Bronchial 116
" Chlorate of Potash 120
Vanilla, Extract of Commercial 31
" " "• Common .• 31
'' " " Pure 29
Vinegar Candy 157
Walnut Candy 72
' ' Bonbons 86
Wintergreen, Essence of 33
" Candy 63
Yellow Coloring , 40
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